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Past Perfect: Shopping for Civil War Repros

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When I used to travel and teach about making reproduction quilts my favorite classroom site was in a quilt shop. I could drag out bolts of fabric to show people the perfect prints to copy a certain era.

Bolts & bolts of fabric.
(I never had to put them back.)



My latest: Baltimore Blues

Of course I'd advise you to buy some of
the fabric I designed, but there are many other
great repro fabric designers.

Suedio's Stash

And I'd have people bring their stash of Civil-War-era fabric to class so I could
tell them what worked and what didn't.


I've been trying to figure out how to do that kind of
teaching online.

Some way I could digitally drag out bolts of fabric (mine and other designers)
to show what's a great reproduction.

Here's what I've come up with.

Pinterest Pages labeled Past Perfect.

This one for example:
MADDER STYLE: PAST PERFECT

I've been posting pictures of period quilts
in the fabric topic.
Union Square by Pam Mayfield 2001

Reproduction quilts for inspiration...
Suggestions for reproduction prints...
Above some old ones of mine. If you click on the picture
and then click again you'll go to the page I pinned from.

I show you other designer's repros too. Above, an old one from Pat Nickols.
You might have it in your stash or can find it online at Etsy, eBay or 
an online shop.

You also get information about the vintage fabrics' properties.
Sometimes if you click twice it takes you to a blog post I've done on the topic or to another site with more information. You'll recognize some of the posts and repros from our Stars in a Time Warp QuiltAlong.

I can add new fabrics and information as I find them on line.

Like this new stripe from Jo Morton's
Gratitude line.

If you keep up with my Madder Style page you'd know what was new and what was old.
Here's a link:

Next week I'll give you links to some other Past Perfect pages.


Abigail Hopper Gibbons: Civil War Nurse

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May 20, 1864
Hospital yard at Fredricksburg, Virginia

The photograph above, an iconic image of the Civil War, shows weary patients and nurse resting outside a field hospital. Photographer James Gardner (1832-?) with brother Alexander worked for the Brady Studios and spent a day in May with the Sanitary Commission.

http://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/2009630187/


On the reverse:
"This is one of the hospitals established by the Sanitary Commission in Fredericksburg, Virginia, during the Wilderness Campaign, in 1864. The wounded are from Kearney's Division, and are being cared for by the noble Sanitary Commission."


In the past few years the woman has been identified as Abigail Hopper Gibbons.


Abigail Hopper Gibbons
1801 – 1893

Gibbons is also in the center of this photograph taken by James Gardner the same day. The 
woman seated next to her is daughter Sarah Emerson.

Abby Hopper Gibbons was born a Quaker in Philadelphia. In 1833 she married James Sloan Gibbons (1810-1892) of Wilmington, Delaware, and they became important activists in the abolitionist movement in New York City in the decades before the Civil War.



Abigail and James Gibbons with children 

Lucy and William on the left, Julia right, Sarah between them, 1854.

Collection of Friends Historical Library, Swarthmore College.

William died the following year after a fall while at Harvard.



When the war began Abby left her daughters and husband in New York, traveling South to deliver goods for the Sanitary Commission. She soon saw the need for nurses. 

Read her letters, many of which concern her nursing work in the book her daughter Sarah edited.

Life of Abby Hopper Gibbons, Told Chiefly Through Her Correspondence by Sarah Hopper Emerson,
https://archive.org/details/lifeabbyhopperg00unkngoog

Dr. Mary Walker in her bloomer costume
after the war, wearing a medal.

She mentions "Dr. Mary Walker, a very little woman in bloomer costume who presides over the 
Indiana Hospital," which was located inside the construction project that would house the U.S. Patent Office in the late spring of 1862.

Gibbons continued her work helping slaves escape during the war. In 1862:
"I have met a great many...colored families...who are still with their masters, but laying plans of escape for themselves and their children. One poor soul said yesterday: 'The Lord has waited a long time, and he ain't going to stand it any longer.' When I go home, I shall get a pass for myself, daughter and servant.
You need not write back on this subject, as on several occasions the letters have come to us glued together after having been opened."
While she was working in the hospitals the anti-black civil disturbance known as the New York Draft Riots took place. The Gibbons home with its reputation of welcoming runaway slaves and supporting the Emancipation Proclamation was a target.

The Infuriated Mob Attacking Mrs. Gibbon's (sic) House.
July, 1863

Sarah's neighborhood in Chelsea
was called Lamartine Place.
The block still stands.
Her home is is now 339 West 29th St (near 8th Avenue).

Read about the Gibbons's antislavery activities and the destruction of their house during the Draft Riot in the Landmarks Preservation Commission report on the Lamartine Place Historic District here: 

This photo of Gibbons in later life shows her embroidering perhaps---or hemming a print.
She did record making quilts in November, 1833, soon after her marriage:
"I have been without 'help,' (to use a New- York expression) and to prevent a 'muss,' ...have been obliged to exercise myself. And my quilting, too, is but just accomplished. One of James' cousins from Wilmington has been spending a week or two with us, and were we not smart to quilt four comforts in three days?"

Sarah and Abigail, seated, May, 1864.
Sarah's husband William Emerson III died of tuberculosis
three months after their November, 1863, marriage.

See more about the Gardner photos:
https://npsfrsp.wordpress.com/2010/06/08/whos-the-woman-in-the-picture/

In 1893 Abby's daughter Lucy Gibbons Morse published a novel about her family's underground railroad activities before the Civil War.
Read Rachel Stanwood: A Story of the Middle of the Nineteenth Century for a view from her perspective.

Past Perfect Pinterest Pages: Reproduction Prints

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A Pinterest page of purples

Below are a few of the many Pinterest Pages I've assembled about different historic quilt color and print styles. Once you've found one of them you can click on the picture of me

and it will take you to all my boards under my name.
(I've also got boards under BlockBase.)

These should help you build your Civil War reproduction print stash with confidence.


Chrome Orange Past Perfect
https://www.pinterest.com/materialculture/chrome-orange-past-perfect/


Double Pink Past Perfect
https://www.pinterest.com/materialculture/double-pink-past-perfect/


Overdyed Green Past Perfect
https://www.pinterest.com/materialculture/overdyed-green-past-perfect/


Prussian Blue Past Perfect
https://www.pinterest.com/materialculture/prussian-blue-past-perfect/


Shirtings Past Perfect
https://www.pinterest.com/materialculture/shirtings-past-perfect/



Turkey Red Past Perfect
https://www.pinterest.com/materialculture/turkey-red-past-perfect/

Madder Style Past Perfect
https://www.pinterest.com/materialculture/madder-style-past-perfect/

Indigo Past Perfect
https://www.pinterest.com/materialculture/indigo-past-perfect/

Abolitionist Quilt at the Chester County Historical Society

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Pennsylvania's Chester County Historical Society owns a baby quilt by the Herrick Sewing Circle of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. The central feathered star block is inked with a poem that indicates it was made specifically for a fundraising bazaar for the antislavery cause "Freedom's Fair."
"Do thou, sweet babe, in safety sleep
Beneath this canopy so fair.
Formed thy fragile limbs to keep
Protected from the chilling air.
Formed in love for Freedom's Fair
To aid a righteous cause
To help its advocates declare
God's unchangeable and equal laws."
The photo is from The Signature Quilt: Traditions, Techniques and Signature Block Collection by Susan McKelvey and Pepper Cory, 1995.

I mentioned this quilt in my first book on Civil War quilts Quilts from the Civil War. I keep hoping to see it again in color. The Chester County Historical Society has 900 quilts in their collection.

Is this the same quilt?

And they have a current exhibit showing some of their new acquisitions:
Quilts: The Next Layer is up through January, 2017.
http://chestercohistorical.org/exhibit/quilts-next-layer

Civil War Sampler Finishes

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BJM followed Becky's set.

This blog started in 2011 with a few blocks
inspired by the 150th anniversary of the Civil War.
That grew to 50 blocks, and
seven more years.

SundayBee designed her own set.

Here are a few finishes from those first year blocks.

A.G. Lindsay, Civil War Sesquicentennial

Jane at StitchByStitch quilted this top.

Marjquilts

Sherry Sorbera

Suedio tried two sets and went with 
the top---alternate white.

Shelia---note the ribbons!

"...After maturing in the UFO pile for 4 years, finally finished this year. I challenged our very talented HandiQuilter tutor to ply her modern magic on a traditional sampler. We were awarded a beautiful blue ribbon and a fabulous red one for 'Retaining the Tradition'."

Something Becky found in her Great-Grandmother's
Trunk

Becky, Denniele, Barb Fife and I are plotting another Civil War
Block of the Month for 2017. We'll keep you posted.

Knit Yourself a Sontag

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If you're looking for an authentic Civil War craft project to fill those evening hours in re-enactment camp after you've done the dishes you can knit yourself a small triangular shawl or a sontag.

Also called a Bosom Friend.

Godey's

Several patterns were published during the Civil War.

Peterson's

And you get the feeling that people followed the patterns
(approximately).

Peterson's
There were crocheted and knotted versions.


Doesn't this one look like tucked fabric
or quilted fabric but most knitters think it is knit.

The name? An early reference: In 1843 Miss Lambert in My Knitting Book gave directions for a sontag or Cephaline, a cap.


The shawl seems to have been named for Henriette Sontag (1806-1854) a German opera star.
(Perhaps her shoulders looked cold.)

The Illustrated Magazine gave a pattern for a
"habit shirt".
 "I do not know why it has received the name of the lamented cantatrice Sontag,
but such is the name by which this sort of garment is generally known."

Vocabulary Lesson
Cantatrice - a singer
Sontag, Habit Shirt and Bosom Friend----- a small shawl
Cephaline - something to wear on your head???

See a patriotic version of a Sontag in the collection of the Massachusetts Historical Society

http://www.masshist.org/blog/574

Westering Women 10: Rocky Mountain Chain

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Westering Women 10: Rocky Mountain Chain by Becky Brown

Becky's story that guided her choice of fabrics:
"Camping at Fort Laramie: a chance to supplement supplies and refresh ourselves mentally and physically in such a beautiful place."

Daniel Jenks painted a difficult pass through the Rockies in what is now
Colorado, where the slopes are steeper.

The Rocky Mountains were a formidable barrier to a trip across the continent. The major trails followed the Platte River because the mountain slopes in the northern Rockies were easier to cross. After passing Fort Laramie trails continued northwest until they came to a place called South Pass. 

William Henry Jackson painted wagons in South Pass
from memory decades after his trip.

You can see South Pass today by taking a small road east of 
Farson, Wyoming.

South Pass crossed the Rocky Mountains so gradually many people didn't notice they'd crossed the Continental Divide until they saw water in the streams running in a new direction---west instead of east. 

A few, like Maria Shrode, were disappointed with the "peak" of the Rockies. She’d thought she’d see “the elephant,” a 19th-century term for a spectacular event. On October 2, 1870 she wrote in her diary: 
“Camped just on the other side of the Rocky Mountains. I had thought all along they would be the Elephant but they are nothing to compare with some we have crossed.”

A 49er---California Miner---seeing the elephant

Elizabeth Dixon Smith was more impressed.
August 1, 1848.
"Passed over the Rocky mountain, the back bone of America. It is all rocks on top and they are split into pieces and turned up edge ways. Oh that I had time and talent to describe this curious country."

Once across this northern range of the Rockies, travelers took branches northwest to Oregon or southwest towards California. 

This block (BlockBase #1951) was published twice in the early 20th century.
Hearth & Home magazine called it Rocky Mountain Chain
and Comfort magazine called it Tumbling Blocks.

I simplified it a bit by importing the BlockBase image into EQ7 and erasing a few of the seams.

Rocky Mountain Chain

Cutting a 12" Block

A - Cut squares 2-7/8". You need 4 dark, 5 medium and 4 medium-light -13 in all.
B - Cut 8 squares 3-1/4". Cut each into 2 triangles with a diagonal cut. You need 16 triangles in all. 

C - Cut 8 rectangles 2-7/8" x 1-3/4".

Sewing the Block



Travelers photographed at South Pass in 1866 by Savage & Ottinger. 

Utah Academic Library Consortium.



Crossing Colorado's Ute Pass in a freight train 
would certainly qualify as seeing the elephant.


Read Maria Shrode's 1870 diary in Ho for California!: Women's Overland Diaries from the Huntington Library, edited by Sandra L. Myres (Huntington Library, 1980). Most of the journals I've been highlighting here are from the 1840s and '50s. After the Civil War when Maria traveled, the trail was very different---railroads and settled cities changed the experience.

Denniele's Block 10
Rocky Mountain Chain

1-10 Jeanne @ Spiral


Quilts for William Lloyd Garrison

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"Hannah S. P. Cotton [Whitney]...was one of the constructors of the remarkable patch-work quilt, sent by the Anti Slavery women of Boylston to Mrs. Chapman's great Fair of more than a half century ago and bought by Anti-Slavery women of Boston and presented to Mr. Garrison. It had a kneeling slave as a central figure and an Anti-Slavery sentiment written in every square."
This tantalizing line about Mrs. Daniel Whitney and the "remarkable patch-work quilt" is in a publication called Old Anti Slavery Days chronicling a Commemorative Meeting Held by the Danvers [Massachusetts] Historical Society in 1893.


Perhaps the woman numbered 4 to the top left of the flower is Hannah Whitney.
Number 4 is unidentified in the 1893 reunion photo.
Number 5, the man with white hair and beard on the
right, is Rev. D.S. Whitney, her husband.

William Lloyd Garrison (1805-1879)
and his daughter
Fanny Garrison Villard about 1860

William Lloyd Garrison, editor of the radical abolitionist newspaper, the Liberator, seems to have been involved with more than one quilt, none of which survive with any links to such a story.

Image from the Wistar quilt in the collection of the
International Quilt Study Group and Museum,
made in Philadelphia.
2005.059.0001

We'd hope to recognize the value of a quilt with a central picture of a kneeling slave, the logo of the antislavery movement. At least two Pennsylvania quilts with that image survive but they aren't the Boylston quilt.

The Deborah Coates quilt,
also made in Pennsylvania
http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2014_09_01_archive.html

Hannah Whitney's quilt is probably the same quilt that Mary Babson Fuhrer described in her book A Crisis of Community: Trials and Transformation of a New England Town, 1815-1848. The crisis over the churches and the reform movement resulted in a quilt donated by Boylston residents going to a "Garrisonian" antislavery fair in Boston where it was said to have been purchased by William Lloyd Garrison. a slight variation of the story. It was made in 1839, which coordinates with the story of the quilt made more than fifty years ago in 1893.
http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2015/03/quilt-causing-crisis-of-community.html

Here's another reference to the Boylston quilt from the 
Voice of Freedom in 1839:
"A bedquilt the squares of which were covered with drawings and inscriptions in indelible ink, illustrating the cause, done by the women of Boylston, was purchased by subscriptions for William Lloyd Garrison, all be desirous to have a small share in the gift."
A second quilt with a Garrison connection was described in the Ohio Anti-Slavery Bugle on September 20, 1851. At an anti-slavery fair in Leesburg, Virginia (conducted, it seems, by some very bold people in a slave-holding state):
"On the background hung a most beautiful quilt, for which sixteen dollars was paid, and the quilt dedicated to the great pioneer, W.L. Garrison, as a token of the attachment of the friends to him personally, for his unwavering fidelity in the slaves cause."
Lucy Stone stands behind a portrait of Garrison
at that 1893 reunion.

Quilt attributed to Garrison's mother
Fanny Lloyd Garrison
Historic New England

See a post on this quilt made by Garrison's mother:
http://quilt1812warandpiecing.blogspot.com/2012/08/a-new-england-applique-fanny-lloyd.html

Suggestions for further research:
Whitney family papers are in Santa Barbara at UCSB's Davidson Library. Perhaps there is mention of the quilt made in Boylston.

http://www.oac.cdlib.org/findaid/ark:/13030/kt7h4nc8vt/entire_text/



Advertisement for an 1857 Antislavery Fair
in North Abington, Massachusetts
at which Garrison was a speaker.

Repeating the Westering Women Blocks

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Westering Women: Chimney Rock, 72" x 72"


Rod's Chimney Rock

VesuviusMama added more seams----no Y seams.

Block 8 wasn't easy to make but if you made 25....

And alternated light and dark shading like...

Block 8 Chimney Rock by Becky Brown

and Block 8 By Terry

You'd have a lovely quilt.

You need 25 12-inch blocks. See the block pattern here:

Add a 6" floral border. I used the same Old Cambridge Pike print Terry used in the center.

An EQ7 sketch
12" blocks
5x5 grid
6" finished border = 72" x 72"

Cut the 2 side borders 6-1/2" x 60-1/2"
The top and bottom 6-1/2" x 72-1/2"

#8320 Lydian from Old Cambridge Pike
If you had 2-1/2 yards and cut the border first
you'd have lots left for fussy cutting.
There would be 8 prints in the alternating blocks
so a yard of 7 each would give you extra for fussy cutting.

Hill & Hollow, 72"

Or try 25 of Block #6 with 2 different shadings.

I Photoshopped RCCheryls

And TrueCompOO's 
into one very nice-looking quilt.

See the pattern for Hill & Hollow here:

Spared and Shared: Sewing and Cricket Coverings

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Sewing, ironing, cleaning and other women's work
About 1910
Letter from Mary Ann (Arnold) Stevens to Olivia (Arnold) Hitchcock
Westminster West [Vermont]
August 31, 1846
"I suppose if you were here, you would inquire what I find to busy myself about? It is true I have an easy time comparatively speaking. I am released from those domestic cares which I used to take when at fathers. Yet you know that a minister’s wife is not entirely free from care. More is expected of her than of a doctor’s wife, or farmer’s wife. A great responsibility rests upon her and if she feels interested as she ought, she fill find enough to do.
Sewing Society about 1875
"The sewing society meets once in two weeks. They are now preparing to send a box away, not dreaded, when they meet here this week. They have quilted four bedquilts since I have been here. Miss Sawyer & her scholars pieced & quilted one."
Sewing Group 
About 1900
"How does your society flourish? I suppose you have not been able to meet with them. They are expecting a fair in the other parish in a few weeks.
I have made my traveling bag into cricket coverings. Mr. Briggs of Hun made them — charged $2.25. They are handsome but rather dear."
Mary Turley Robinson
Nantucket Ottomans, Crickets and Quilt 1938

At first I assumed cricket coverings are to protect the garden plants. Or was some game of Cricket going on in Vermont?
Then I stumbled upon a print of ottomans and crickets and now I see a cricket is a subcategory of what we around here call footstools.

$2.25 was indeed a lot of money for upholstery services!



Historians love the minutiae of everyday life---the small details whether it's crickets or patchwork.
I found these two letters on Spared & Shared, a blog "Rescuing History from Old Letters One Page at a Time. "

Do a search. You might find someone you know.




Another letter from New England about upholstery:

Nashua, [New Hampshire]
January 26, 1848: Anne Eliza Shepard to Maria Leavitt (Burns) Mack
"have commenced some black patchwork of silk & velvet for chair seats. Mrs. Crosby of Lowell told me that those old fashioned chairs of which grandmother had a half dozen would be very suitable to cover & she would think that each of the sisters would like two of them.... Mrs. Crosby has an old chair fitted up & covered with some patchwork that Frances made...."

https://sparedandshared2.wordpress.com/letters/1848-anne-eliza-shepard-to-maria-leavitt-burns-mack/

2017 Block of the Month: Yankee Diary

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Next year this blog will feature a free Block of the Month pattern called Yankee Diary. Each month in 2017 you'll get a pieced or applique pattern for a Civil War reproduction sampler inspired by several patriotic quilts from the time.

I've been reading the diary of Caroline Cowles Richards who worked on many quilts in Canandaigua, New York, in the 1850s and '60s. She wrote about them in her diary, which also gives us insight into life for fortunate girls in the mid-19th century.

 Civil War era tea party in Richmond, Virginia.

As Carrie Richards discusses the coming of the War in her town we'll be stitching stars and stripes and dogs and flags. You may recall we did a Dixie Diary quilt a few years ago, focusing on Sarah Morgan's Louisiana  journal A Confederate Girl's Diary.

Moose Bay Muses version
of the Dixie Diary

Carrie and sister Anna

We'll go to upstate New York for our time travel in a Yankee Diary. Sarah and Carrie begin the War in parallel fashion, a little bit spoiled, a little bit self-absorbed. Both matured under very different circumstances.

A few of the inspiration blocks for Yankee Diary







You'll have to wait till next year---the last Wednesday of January,
which is January 25, 2017---to see the first block.

We'll discuss color schemes and fabrics before then.

Disaster at the AntiSlavery Fair & a Quilt for Abby Kelley Foster

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Women staffing the tables at the 1864 Metropolitan Fair in Manhattan

The ladies of West Winfield, New York, put on an antislavery fair in 1846 (I'm assuming it was in the fair season around Christmas) that resulted in a building collapse recorded by correspondent J.C. Hathaway of in the Antislavery Standard newspaper and picked up by other papers.

A summary:
"The fair was held in the upper hall of a local building "trimmed in the most exquisite manner.... Everything was in perfect keeping.
But at 7:45 on the first evening:

20th-century floor collapse scene
"TERRIBLE CRASH!! THE HALL HAS GIVEN WAY! NO LIVES LOST...
Two thirds of the floor of the hall has just given way, and that men, women and children, tables, and all their beautiful contents, all went down in one confused mass. It was all the work of a moment---the terrible crash of the timbers---the bursting of the camphene lamps---the smoke---and the screams of many voices...The only wonder is that many lives were not lost...."
All the tables containing the dry goods and fancy articles were in that part of the hall which gave way---and delicately wrought card-baskets, and beautiful needlework and rich embroidery...were indiscriminately trampled under foot.

A 19th-century floor collapse
"The most melancholy part of the whole affair is the fact, that the out-door gentry immediately rushed to the scene of action, and amid the general confusion bore off nearly all the money...and also carried off more than half the goods.
A subscription was commenced yesterday for a bed-quilt, worth $8.00 to be presented to Abby Kelley Foster---and more than $5.00 subscribed and paid in, but the paper and money fell into the hands of the freebooters...."

Abby Kelley Foster (1810-1887)

This March, 1847, reference to a quilt for the antislavery activist Abby Kelley Foster indicates the New York women were considering giving her a gift---perhaps the $8 was meant to buy the fabric or to buy a finished quilt at the fair. The newspaper article indicated they immediately began raising money again after the dust settled.

See another reference to a quilt for Abby Kelley Foster at this post:
http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2015/02/an-anti-slavery-quilt-from-everettville.html

Read more in the Ohio abolitionist newspaper, the Anti-slavery Bugle, March 05, 1847, Image 3, at the Library of Congress site Chronicling America:

Sage Bud---Coordinating the Blocks

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Joanne's Sage Bud

I've been collecting photos of your Sagebud block (#9 in Westering Women)

Maminounid

ColvinKiwi

Star2tia


JJan added more seams to avoid Y-seams.

getting the same block if not the same look.

I found a variety of looks.


When I Photoshopped them altogether it wasn't the most coordinated quilt. So I tried some design tricks to get a calmer look.

One way to pull things together is to alternate a simple block
with the same proportions. Here I did a digital sketch
of a nine patch constructed like the Sagebud....

Creating a coordinated quilt out
of some of your coordinated blocks.

Another design trick is to do a counterchange shading
with one block light on dark and the alternated block dark on light.

To do that I Photoshopped Jeanne's block
by "inverting" it and fooling with the color.

The dark border also pulls things together.

I added a digital border of "Patterson Park" from
my Baltimore Blues line (it's not all blue).

Not really to scale but you get the idea.

A Union Quilt: Definitions & Descriptions

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"Union" on a quilt about 1860

In 1863 nurse Adeline M. Walker thanked the ladies of Portland, Maine, for their "Union Quilt" donated to the hospital in Annapolis. What did she mean by a Union quilt?
See the post here:
http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2016/04/a-union-quilt-at-annapolis-hospital.html

Unknown woman wearing a Union banner

 The name was in the air during the Civil War.

Jennie Hamilton of Harrison County, Ohio, won a 25 cent prize
for a Union Quilt at the county fair after the war in 1865.


In 1861 Ellen M. Nelson of West Newbury, Massachusetts, won a $2 second prize for "a Union Quilt, with five hundred and fifty pieces, made in six weeks" at the Essex County Fair.

Perhaps this Ellen M. Nelson Poore (1843 - 1918) buried in West Newbury.
http://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=gr&GSln=Poore&GSiman=1&GScty=59915&GRid=103259265&


In 1864, Mrs. William Paul of Dedham, Massachusetts, won a diploma at the Norfolk County Fair for her "union quilt, 1895 pieces."

These last two Union quilts seem to have a notable number of pieces. Perhaps the words Union quilt meant something like a charm quilt or postage stamp quilt with many small pieces.

Quilt dated 1862

Robert Barry Coffin, writing under the name Barry Gray, published a humorous magazine sketch of "Model Young Ladies" during the war, which was republished in his Castles in the Air: And Other Phantasies in 1871. The model ladies included "The Union Young Lady:"
"Her 'fancy work' is embroidering presentation flags for departing regiments, and quilting a 'Union quilt,' formed of red, white and blue silk; but as she refuses to disclose the name of the happy individual who is destined to sleep under it, we will not seek to penetrate the secret."
Here a Union quilt means a silk quilt in flag colors.

Perhaps something like this one, about which I can find nothing
other than a photo floating around on the internet.


In 1866 the periodical United States Sanitary Commission Bulletin discussed a flag quilt/Union quilt.
"Sometime in April [1865], we received from a county town a quilt made in the form of a flag---red and white stripes and a blue field with the white stars sewed on, all nicely quilted....a note attached requesting the solider who had the comfort of sleeping under this Union quilt to acknowledge it."
J.B. from the 202nd Regiment of the Pennsylvania Volunteers did acknowledge the gift in May, 1865:
"The first night the flag quilt was spread over me, I did dream of the loved ones far away..."

The phrase continued after the War. 

In 1892, the Ohio Practical Farmer's "Exchanges" column included a request: "Will Ilka who gave pattern of Union quilt last October, say how large the blocks are and what pattern she usually outlines on the white blocks; also how many blocks for the quilt? M. L. Venice, O." I haven't found Ilka's pattern or any reply to the request yet.


In 1880 Annie Saffer of Philadelphia won a $2.50 award at the Pennsylvania State Fair for a "Union motto quilt, stars and stripes quilt."


And then there is this style of four-block eagle, called a "Union Quilt" by Ruth Finley in a 1929 magazine article. Finley, born in 1884, may have heard the term growing up in Ohio.
http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2015/03/a-new-jersey-union-quilt.html

I think the only conclusion we can come to is that the words Union Quilt were in use during the war and after and that the definition was diverse.

Detail of a quilt by Elizabeth Holmes in 1869

Sets for Westering Women

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Jeanne's been setting her Westering Women blocks monthly as she makes them.

She's using the official set with 3" finished sashing.
Instructions here:

JJan is using the potholder technique
or Quilt As You Go method. She quilts each block before
she stitches them together. The narrow strip probably goes on two sides.

Denniele is also using narrow strips but piecing the top
in conventional fashion. Her 12" setting strips feature
finished x" blue strips and x" light.

Lynette is alternating a log cabin block.

This series started out as a Block of the Month for my guild.
Here is one of the sets, an alternate half square triangle block. Our
blocks were larger and featured a few different blocks.

For 12" blocks, the triangles would be cut from squares cut 12-7/8".
You'd need 13 alternate blocks.
So cut 7 dark squares and 7 light.


Quaker Community and a Kidnapped Family

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Photoshopped collage of Mary Payne's quilt block about
1850 and her portrait about 1890

Quilts are significant in their link to the past. They engage families with their own history. They also draw an audience to a historical narrative that might otherwise be ignored. One surviving Pennsylvania quilt has those qualities, telling the story of a family of freed slaves kidnapped by ruffians, returned to slavery in Virginia and freed again through the court of law.

The Quaker Valley Friendship Quilt
Collection Menallen Friends
Menallen Township, Adams County, Pennsylvania

The quilt has links to the Payne family's ordeal and the Quakers who offered them aid.

In 1843 Catherine (Kitty) Payne (1816 - about 1850), a 27-year-old slave in Virginia owned by the Maddox family, was the widow of free man Robert Payne. Mary Maddox, her owner, moved to Pennsylvania with several of her slaves, freeing Mary and her four children (Eliza, Mary, James Arthur and George) that year. Kitty and her family settled on Bear Mountain in Adams County.

Kitty lived in northern Adams County, Pennsylvania,
the yellow star at the top. Gettysburg (center star)
is the largest city. Maryland along the southern border
was a slave state.

Samuel Maddox Jr. objected to his Aunt Mary's actions in depriving him of what he saw as an inheritance. He and a group of men headed by professional slave-napper Thomas Finnegan of Maryland captured Kitty on July 24, 1845, and returned them to Virginia. The family of four (the baby had died) were jailed---or kept under house arrest for protection--- for a year, depending on the story.

Finnegan's ventures into Pennsylvania to capture free blacks and runaways infuriated the antislavery Quakers who assisted the family with legal help and other aid before and after their Virginia trial. 

Richmond Enquirer, September 18, 1846

The Baltimore Patriot printed an account of the Payne case resolution, which was copied by
several other newspapers in September, 1846. Surprisingly the Virginia court ruled that Kitty and "her children were equitably entitled to their freedom...the negroes were set free.....the arrest of this woman and her children caused much excitement in Adams county, Pa., at the time it was made...."

The family returned to Menallen Township in Adams County and the children were placed with Quaker families. Mary Payne, by that time about 6 years old, was raised in the John Wright home.

The tale of Kitty Payne and her children being beaten, bound, gagged and dragged back to Virginia resonated in Adams County. The story has been told many times by the family and the neighbors over the years. At some point quilt blocks were stitched and inked. Mary Payne signed one as did Jane Wright, her foster sister, and several other of the Quakers who helped the family.

The quilt has been linked to the Payne kidnapping only recently - in the past decade, I believe, by Kitty's great-granddaughter Sandy Kasabuske. I haven't noticed any dates inscribed on the blocks but I would guess the blocks were made in the years 1840-1860 by the fabrics.

Several of them are done in the fashionable blue
and buff color scheme of the 1840-1860 years.


Rebecca Wright's block
Others are pieced of Turkey red prints, another album fad in the 1840s and '50s.

It's difficult to determine from the photos when the blocks were set together as
the setting fabric is a plain white cotton---offering only minimal clues to the
Quilt Detective. The horizontal grid of setting strips is also no clue.

The Quaker Valley quilt has been researched and discussed
by Quaker quilt historians Mary Holton Robare and Lynda Salter Chenoweth
on their blog Quaker Quilts:
Here are 3 links:
http://www.quakerquilthistory.com/2015/08/the-quaker-valley-quilt-part-1.html
http://www.quakerquilthistory.com/2015/08/the-quaker-valley-quilt-part-2.html
http://www.quakerquilthistory.com/2015/09/the-quaker-valley-quilt-part-3.html


This may be the family with whom Mary Payne lived:
John Wright, b. 4 Mo. 28, 1782; d. 12 Mo. 20, 1860; m. 10 Mo. 24, 1804, Alice Wilson.
Children:
Sarah, m. Enos McMillan, son of Jacob and Ruth (Griffith);
George, m. Lucy Wright;
Joel;
Eliza, m. Jacob B.Hewitt;
Ruth;
Jane;
Charles S., m. 9 Mo. 30, 1846, Hannah G. Penrose.

A soldier examines bullet holes in the Brian (Bryan) house
following the Battle of Gettysburg. 

After their return to Pennsylvania Kitty married Abraham Brian (1804-1879) and had two more children. Soon after Kitty died Abraham bought a farm on the Emmetsburg Road near Gettysburg. Pennsylvania, site of a future battle. Kitty Payne Brian's early death spared her that horrifying episode of American Civil War history.


Kitty is now interred with second husband Abraham Brian and another of Brian's wives
at the Lincoln Cemetery at Gettysburg.

Abram Bryan was listed in the 1860 census as having land worth $1400.
He is living with Elizabeth and two boys, Francis (11) and William (14).

Mary Payne (1840 - 1928) married William Jackson. I believe her descendant Mary Jackson Goins Gandy is one of the family members who has kept the story alive.

Some sources:
The Menallen Friends own the quilt.

Westering Women 11: Bear's Paw

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Block #11 Bear’s Paw by Becky Brown

This month's block for our Westering Women sampler is a version of the traditional Bear’s Paw, chosen to remember trail landmarks Soda Springs and the Bear River.

The red star is near Soda Springs in what is now Idaho.
Map: National Oregon/California Trail Center

After crossing South Pass, travelers followed the Bear River continuing northwest through mountainous country full of volcanic rock. They marveled at craters, cones and geysers in an area called Soda Springs. 
“ July 3, 1851. Travelled 20 miles. Had tolerable level road....Came to soda springs which are along the bank of the river. The water boils up from the bottom. Sparkles and tastes just as a glass of soda will, pure and cold. I never saw anything so splendid in all my life....It is thrown up by means of gass or something of the kind in the earth....There is a trading establishment here...was a chance to send letters to Fort Leavenworth on the [Missouri River]." Amelia Hadley
Geyser at Soda Springs,
mid-20th-century postcard
The geyser was accidentally created by drilling in 1937.
The springs used to bubble up in calmer fashion.

The mineral hot springs spewed saleratus, which could be used to leaven biscuits by producing gas in the dough like baking soda does. There’s a preserved soda spring 1-1/2 miles north of Soda Springs, Idaho. 

"July, 1850
Reached the far-famed Soda Springs and Steamboat Spring at the big bend of the Bear River….[They] boil up from the ground in many places, forming mounds of earth with a little cup or hollow on the top…I dipped a cupful without leaving my seat in the wagon. Its taste was that of ordinary soda water. I learned afterwards from those who had used it that it made very light biscuit. We had no chance to give it a trial in this way."    Margaret Frink
Harriet Booth Griswold camped a day on the Bear River in August, 1859: "Did not travel today. Staid to shoe [horses] and recruit stock [probably purchase fresh horses or oxen from the traders there.] Been washing, picking over berries & steamed a nice dumpling for supper."

Detail of cooking on a riverside by Daniel Jenks, 1859

Rivers soon became scarce for the California bound who followed the Humboldt River until it disappeared into the desert and then on to the Truckee and American Rivers and the end of the trail. Those headed for Oregon followed the Snake River northwest.         


Bear's Paw by Denniele Bohannon
                                                                                            

This Bear’s Paw with a Four Patch  (BlockBase #1885) is from the Grandmother Clark pattern catalog in 1932. She called it Bear's Paw or The Best Friend. The block can recall the geothermal sights along the Bear River.

A - Cut 20 Squares 2" x 2"
B - Cut 16 squares 2-3/8". Cut each into 2 triangles with a diagonal cut. 

You need 32 triangles.
C - Cut 4 rectangles 5" x 3-/2"
D - Cut 1 square 3-1/2"



Becky, who lives in the Virginia countryside, made her block during a week with a Virginia bear encounter:
"The timing is perfect, because we had a bear in our back yard last night. We had thunder and lightning and I stepped out on the back porch to see if it was raining - and noticed that we'd had an intruder - the bear kind, 20 feet from our patio. Our bird feeder pole is completely down and twisted over and the bird feeder full of sunflower seeds was about 12 feet away. I'm pretty sure my stepping outside scared it away, since the feeder hadn't been smashed yet. I checked the trail camera this morning. . .wishful thinking on my part, but there is no video of him."
Read more about saleratus.
http://www.cooksinfo.com/saleratus 

See Harriet Booth Griswold's diary in a preview of Covered Wagon Women,Volume 7: Diaries and Letters from the Western Trails, 1854-1860: 


Amelia Hadley's 1851 diary is in Volume 3 of Covered Wagon Women. Read a preview here:
https://books.google.com/books?id=9W3ZSrJb1_8C&source=gbs_navlinks_s

Fredericksburg's Confederate Cemetery

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Over Thanksgiving we visited the Confederate Cemetery in Fredericksburg, Virginia.

The color pictures are mine; the black & whites
 from the Library of Congress.

3,500 graves mark the burial places of Southern soldiers. Some had survived the war to live into the 20th century. The majority were killed in at least four near-by Civil War battles. More than 2,000 blank stones mark the final resting spot of an unknown soldier.

Stonewall Jackson's grave in Lexington, Virginia, in the 1860s

These Civil War memorial cemeteries were women's work after the War.

Skirts are slightly narrower so this photo
 was taken a little later, but it still looks like the 1860s.

The first order of business was to purchase a burying ground.

Fredericksburg during the War by Timothy O'Sullivan.

The women of Fredericksburg bought land in 1867.

Men wounded in the Battle of Chancellorsville, Virginia, 1863.

The next step: Digging up the hastily buried bodies in cornfields and hillsides around the South. 


Funds were needed to pay for laborers to do the ghoulish work.
Grave markers were commissioned, originally of wood,

later of stone. In Fredericksburg various state organizations
contributed for the headstones, most of which are blank.

The final crown to each graveyard was a memorial to the Confederate soldier.
The memorial here to the Confederate Dead was finished in 1884.

Funds were also needed for continuing upkeep.

Tombstone

Women North and South used fundraising methods they had perfected during the War---fairs, bazaars, theatricals, meals, and quilt raffles. Below is one account of Appomatox, Virginia, women raising cemetery construction money using a "Confederate Album Quilt" (About which we know nothing more.)
Article from the Bamberg (SC) Herald, 1899
"For 18 months we have labored with love and zeal to raise funds to enclose with an iron fence the Appomatox Confederate Cemetery, where eight 'who wore the gray' and one who 'wore the blue' sleep their last sleep....After having had many entertainments we determined to try a 'Confederate Album Quilt.'"
Detail: Silk quilt in the collection of the Museum of the American Civil War
and the Confederate White House

See a post about this quilt made to fund a memorial in Fayetteville, North Carolina.


Read more about the Virginia's Ladies' Memorial Associations here:


Fabric for Yankee Diary

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Susan B Rogers quilt, 1867, Smithsonian Institution collection

Susan's quilt is one of the samplers that provided inspiration for our 2017 Block of the Month Yankee Diary. It begins Wednesday, January 25.

Susan B used a white background with various blues, reds and greens. Note the flags of striped fabric. Hers is set in conventional squares but we are going to be doing an irregular set with various sized and shaped blocks.

I am doing mine in traditional colors like Susan B, primarily red, white and blue with green and yellow accents---no browns.
  • Turkey red reproduction prints for the reds.
  • Various bright and dark blues from my Union Blues and Baltimore Blues lines.
  • A little gold in print and plain.
  • Some rather odd olive greens for leaves.
  • And the background is a plain white.


Denniele is doing hers in red, white and blue. Her background is a plain navy blue.  For the applique and piecing she's using some clear, bright reds and the blues are from Baltimore Blues

Becky's background is a small print, a slightly gray shirting print.
Her colors are red and green but in this block the red is pushed to pink and the green to a more pastel, clear green.

Here she's pushed the red to madder orange.

You'll be making some flags. I bought a fat quarter of a blue polka dot and a red zig-zag stripe. Denniele also used a zig-zag for her flags; Becky a traditional madder-style stripe. A fat quarter of each is enough but you may want a half yard so you can use the prints in other blocks too.

Flag fabrics


Here's the plan for the quilt finishing 42" x 54"
The numbers are the monthly pattern numbers.


Fabric Requirements
I bought 3 yards of the background---I'm not planning a border.
But if you want to add a 9" border to make the quilt 60" x 72" buy 1-3/4 yards.

For the applique and piecing in the blocks you will want an assortment of prints (or maybe plains). You'll need the flag fabric (see above).
Fat quarters:  Perhaps 8 would be enough for the monthly blocks and checkerboard filler strips. It's going to be very scrappy so you probably can raid your stash for most of it.

Block 6 in the diagram is a checkerboard filler.

Other Color ideas.
Below some samplers I found on the internet.

First: Monochromes

Red & white by whom?
Here's a sampler of irregular sized blocks, which
is what we'll be doing. It looks great in red and white
and the two-color combination unifies different sizes and blocks.

Same sampler in two fabrics - recolored in blue and white.

Shades of blue by whom?

Almost black and white by Elisa 

Then there's sophisticated neutrals

Farmhouse Spring Sampler. 
Colors pushed almost to grays.
The kit is from The Cotton Patch---wools and cotton flannels.

Settlers' Pride sampler by Maggie Bonanomi
Wool on black.
That Maggie look is a great look.

Passion Flowers by Becky Goldsmith, 2008

And then there's Becky Goldsmith's take on traditional color.

Pennsylvania Anti Slavery Fair, December, 1847

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Mid-19th-century silk hexagon quilt

Correspondent "C." from Chester County, Pennsylvania, wrote an account of the twelfth annual Philadelphia Anti-Slavery Fair in 1847, held "as usual, on the 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th days of the week before Christmas,"

There was at least one quilt shown.

The Assembly Buildings on Chestnut Street, 1853

C. described many of the items shown in the Assembly Buildings:


"There were for strict utilitarians, hose, handkerchiefs, caps, holders, socks, sewing cotton  &tc. (The authorized agents for the sale, in this country, of Dorcas spool cotton, a new manufacture, and of very superior kind, presented the Fair with one hundred dozens of it.)"
I've noticed lately that some of the donations to these ladies' bazaars were commercial goods from wholesalers or retailers---thread or fabric. But most were handmade items.

"Work baskets neatly lined with silk---the thousand and one varieties of bags and cushions.

"A new supply of the Anti-Slavery Alphabet....
The Anti-Slavery Alphabet was a children's
book to teach the alphabet and slavery's evils at the same time,
printed first for the 1846 fair.
"Two copies of a Daguerreotype picture representing an a group the female members of the executive committee of the State Society.
A photo taken in 1851 of both men and women in the Anti-Slavery Society.
Those two Daguerreotypes featuring the women might have been
your best investment at the 1847 fair.
"At the refreshment table: the disciples of Graham might find unleavened brown bread, and green corn boiled, uncooked fruits and cold water; while those of more 'liberal habits' might have their energies replenished with ice-cream, tea, coffee, chocolate, oysters lobsters,...rich cakes and confectionery, preserves and pickles.
(Now you know where Graham crackers come from.)

Quilt dated 1866 E.B.
"The lovers of 'patch-work' would have been pleased with a counterpane that was there, the work of an elderly woman of color in the city. It was of hexagon figures, each of which would scarcely measure over an inch in diameter. The material was rich silk of beautiful dies (sic)."
We don't know the quiltmaker's name or anymore about her quilt.
 It must have been a sacrifice to give up such a quilt to be sold at a fair. 
But the cause was a good cause.

And this gives us an excuse to look at silk hexagon quilts.






The article about the fair was in the Anti-Slavery Bugle, January 7, 1848.

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