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1864 Album from Westmoreland New York

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Quilt dated 1864, made for Robert W. Wilson,
Westmoreland, New York.
Sold at Cottone Auctions 2011.


I don't have many 1864 quilts in my file of dated quilts.


This one is similar to New York Albums of the Civil War era.

The block in the lower right here with an ax, a handsaw and a rail fence
might recall a rail splitter---

Vintage saw
perhaps a pro-Lincoln block.



Lincoln from a cotton bandana




Stars in a Time Warp 24: Fancy Machine Grounds

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Repro chintz star by Bettina Havig

Bettina used a great chintz with a fancy background,
a Pat Nickols print from a few years ago.

Repro chintz star by Becky Brown
Notice the textured background.

Detail of a vintage chintz quilt with two blotch-ground prints,
and scraps of a chintz with a fancy machine ground in the lower right.

Taste in chintz evolved from a preference for white ground florals to colored grounds. Then about 1810 a new fashion appeared. Everyone wanted chintz with fancy printed backgrounds.


Two borders of fancy grounds behind floral figures.
Stella Rubin

In the 1820s and '30s these complicated figure and ground combinations were just the thing.

Quilt dated 1839 by Mary Julian
She contrasted neat geometrics with a complicated
chintz border, the print made more complex with a fancy machine background.

Printers with newly developed skills in printing details went overboard in design ideas.

Cracked ice or vermiculate details were popular backgrounds
behind the florals.

A repro of this print might be hard to sell.

Detail of a many-layered chintz in a vintage quilt at the recent Prussian Blue show
at the New England Quilt Museum.

This one would make a popular repro print.

Honeycomb or netted grounds were rather simple to print and to integrate into a quilt.

Small dots also made an interesting background.

At left a reproduction of the original print with a shading of fine dots. The dots were called picotage in French and Stormont ground in English. The reproduction is from my Lately Arrived from London line.

The textured background is so subtle in this early 19th century print
that it hardly shows up in the lighter and smaller reproduction at top left.
It's difficult to copy the detail of the fancy machine grounds printed
with metal rollers

A large-scale  vintage print with the same kind of scroll and ground

Similar feel in a repro by Nancy Gere

Dots as background and forming a secondary print in a quilt dated 
1838 from dealer Pique Trouve


The fence rail set is cut from chintz with a fancy machine ground in
this vintage quilt.

Reproductions

Repro block by Becky Brown
The fabric has a background in picotage-style.



Can you see the fancy grounds in this Chintz Medallion reproduction
from Quilting Treasures?

Ann Robinson, a Shelburne Museum collection

From Circa 1825 from In the Beginning


Memento Edith by Mary Koval

Two florals with secondary patterns in the backgrounds from Judie Rothermel.
Becky used the blue one for her block at the top of the page.

Two by Nancy Gere
It's easier to find smaller-scale prints with
fancy machine grounds than the large-scale chintzes.

Picotage ground in a repro from Pat Nickols

What to do with your Stack of Stars?
Move the border in.

When I saw this Stash Stars pattern from Atkinson Design I thought how good that would look
in chintzy style. It's really a simple medallion in Terry Atkinson's trademark style.

I made a mock-up in EQ7. A chintz strip? It's a classic.

This one uses 44 stars finishing to 8" with a strip finishing
to 8" in the inner border. It's 66" x 66".

One More Thing About Fancy Machine Grounds
The ground can wind up isolated from the original chintz.

Our repro print with a vintage hexagon in the detail

For the Floral Trails reproduction line Terry Thompson and I did 15 years ago we had just the background of an antique chintz. Some over-enthusiastic reproduction quiltmaker had cut out all the flowers.

But the leftover lacy background was complex enough to make a good print.The vintage hexagons in the box above feature the same background. I bet the quilter who made the antique hexagons above had cut her chintz flowers out too and saved her tiny fancy background scraps.

Here is the fancy-machine-ground chintz as it was, yardage
bordering an Irish Chain quilt from Stella Rubin.


Sometimes you get the feeling that a quilt is a transition piece overlapping different styles.
The chintz with all its details is 1830s-style. The red and green Irish Chain blocks are marching
into the 1840s and '50s.

Read more on fancy machine grounds at this post.

And in America's Printed Fabric, pages 27-29.

In War Time: A Study of Civil War Era Quilts: 1850-1865

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Shield and Stars
by Pamela Weeks
Pam interpreted a Civil-War-era quilt made by Cornelia Dow.

The American Quilt Study Group has self-published a book on their 2014 Quilt Study. Members interpreted a quilt from the Civil War era, the time period 1850-1865.

The study quilt reproductions were first shown at AQSG's Milwaukee seminar last September.


You can buy the catalog on Amazon, which offers distribution for such self-published books.

https://smile.amazon.com/ch/47-0813103

If you use this address to access Amazon and select the American Quilt Study Group in Amazon Smile, the non-profit receives an increased percentage of the profits.

The book is available for $21.95.


Lewis's Big Yellow Star by
Susan Craig Spurgeon

A selection of the entries is now traveling to museums around the country for the next three years. (I was one of the judges.)

Here's the schedule:

February to June of 2015
Monroe County History Center, Bloomington IN

July 1 to October 2015
New England Quilt Museum

November 2015 to March 1, 2016
Virginia Quilt Museum

March 11-13, 2016
The Dallas Quilt Show

April 1 to July 30, 2016
Quilter's Hall of Fame, Marion, Indiana

September 15 to December 15, 2016
Northern Michigan University, DeVos Art Museum

December 20 to February 20, 2017
Baldwin Reynolds House Museum, Meadville, PA

March 1 to May 31, 2017
Gilbert Historical Museum, Gilbert AZ

June 2017 to October 20, 2017
Rocky Mountain Quilt Museum, Boulder, CO

November 1 to February 28, 2018
Sheerer Museum of Stillwater, Stillwater, OK

June 1 to August, 2018
La Conner Quilt and Textile Museum, LaConner, WA


Check the schedule 
http://americanquiltstudygroup.org/QS%20Exhibit%20Schedule.asp

You'll find 50 reproduction quilts to enjoy at this AQSG site

Oh! Shenandoah by Carol Born

Wild Thing by Virginia L. Mummert

Stars in a Time Warp 16: Paisleys

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Reproduction block with a paisley star by Becky Brown


Tintype of a woman in a cashmere shawl, about 1860

What we call paisleys derive from woven cashmere shawls, which originated in India’s Kashmir region, home to soft wools and deft weavers.

Vintage British quilt about 1820-1840

Traditional patterns included stylized botanicals focusing on a cone or seedpod shape, seen in the lilac border on the right. This oval with a curled tail was known as the botha or boteh (from the Hindi buta for flower). 

Textile manual in German from the 
New York Public Library

The botanical source for the boteh design is in some dispute. Some textile historians see it as a pinecone, others as a gourd or the shoot of a date palm, possibly associated with fertility.

Portait of a woman by William Powell Frith.
Is she wearing an expensive Kashmir shawl or
a European knock-off?

European factories from Lyons and Rheims to Norwich and Manchester produced machine-woven shawls, but Scotland specialized in them. Pieces made in the west coast town of Paisley earned a reputation as the best. Soon the Kashmir shawl became known as the Paisley shawl and the characteristic boteh shape was called a paisley.


The fashion for wool shawls also inspired imitation cotton prints, first known as shawl prints.
Mid-19th-century quilters developed a passion for cotton prints that imitated the colors as well as the designs of the shawls.
Reproduction with the document swatch from my 
Civil War Homefront collection.

Madder dyes used in wool shawls also worked well with cotton printing processes.


The prints were popular for dressing gowns (wrappers) and furnishings for the boudoir so there were many sewing scraps, but the style was so important for quilts that much yardage must have been sold just for patchwork. 


Vintage block about 1870-1890

One sees these madder-style paisleys in quilts from the 1860s into the 1890s. The high point of the style seems to be the 1870s and ‘80s.


Vintage print from the last half of the 19th century

Paisley figures were often set in striped sets, which quilters
liked for borders and strips

and everything else....

Block dated 1875

Vintage print from the 20th century
Cone shapes were also set in what textile designers
call a tossed set.

Paisley dresses from 1968
A serious paisley revival took place in the 1960s; the cones here
 in a tossed set.

Vintage quilt about 1870-1900
Sashing strips include a tossed paisley on the sides
and a stripe paisley on the bottom.

Paisley from the early 19th century
set foulard style, or in a staggered half-drop repeat.



Reproductions

Shawn used a paisley center as a contrast to a lighter foulard background.
Terrific reproduction of mid-century madder style taste.

Flying Geese from Nancy's Quilts webpage, 1998.

You need tossed sets, stripe sets and foulard sets
in your paisley collection

Detail of a paisley reproduction by Roseanne Smith


Rue Indienne by French General for Moda

Three of mine: Striped set, tossed set and grid set

Another of my repros in a stripe set.

Reproduction star by Becky Brown
The dark paisley foulard in the background is from 
Alice's Scrapbag, my fall Moda collection.

The repro is the redder print in the corner. The other is the original.
Sales reps are showing this collection to shop owners right now.
It's both a paisley and a foulard. And a madder-style print too.


Two of Nancy Gere's many paisley repros.

Paula Barnes does
border stripes and neat stripes.

Pam Weeks

Moda Collections for a Cause: Charity

Jo Morton's Caswell County:
Foulards and Paisleys

Voila by Jo Morton
Border is the Leesburg indienne print below
in a different colorway

Jo Morton Leesburg

Atelier by 3 Sisters
A tossed set in colors popular in the 1880s and '90s,
a different brown with more green in it than red.
More on bronze colors later.

Paisleys Gone Wild by Becky Brown

What to Do with Your Stack of Stars?
Alternate with a Nine Patch.

The star is based on a Nine Patch with a proportion of 1:2:1 so a block based on the same geometry goes well.

My sewing group alternated stars and nine-patches
in our Summer Birthdays William Morris quilt.

Summer Birthdays by the Sew Whatevers

I found the same idea in Quilts by Katlin,

A few years ago Moda's Three Sisters did a Hollywood and Vines quilt
alternating the star with a four patch in the middle of the nine patch



One More Thing About Paisley Prints


Sandra Dallas’s 1995 novel about a quilting club in Kansas during the Great Depression established the name Persian Pickle for the boteh design. I could find no 19th-century references to “Persian Pickle” or anything that didn’t have to do with Dallas’s book. That’s the thing about good fiction—it can make you believe it’s all very real.

See a discussion of that name in my post and in the comments. In Russian they called the boteh a Gherkin.

Stars in a Time Warp 25: Wood Block Prints

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Val's white ground chintz repro is a copy of an early
woodblock print.

This week we'll discuss a printing technique rather than a print or color style. Woodblocks are a basic technology for obtaining repeat pattern on fabric.

Woodblocks produced some of the pattern
on this old calico but hand-painting, an even older technology,
may have been the method for obtaining the reds.

An early 19th-century hexagon with fussy-cut figures
from wood block prints. Figures were set far apart,
which made it easy to isolate the floral.


We looked at block technology when we discussed blotch grounds a few weeks ago. One the left, scraps of a woodblock pineapple print with a madder red ground from my collection. The DAR Museum has a quilt with the same fabric in the border at right.

Grapevine medallion by Aberilla Wood Shunk,
DAR collection

See details at the Quilt Index:

Detail from an early cradle quilt
Collection of the Boston Museum of Fine Arts

The simplest woodblock print is a single color on white.

Detail of a contemporary madder block print by Graham Keegan


Vintage madder block print

Vintage indigo print with white areas reserved by wax,
same process used in batik prints.

But many colors could be obtained.

Added blue and added yellow also make green

Well into the 19th century, printers continued to add extra color by hand with a brush (a technique called penciling.) 

A floral trail woodblock.
Four colors, madder red, blue, purple and chocolate brown

Full-chintz was the name for large-scale prints with
red, blue, yellow, green, brown and purple in them
(No purple here).

Printers added detail with blocks stuck with metal pins (picotage)

I'm guessing this is a woodblock print because of the poor registration (figures have color gaps) and the soft edges to the colored areas.


As technology improved, they combined metal plate printing (leaves) with block printing (ground).

Early Cradle quilt from the Robbins Family of Lexington, Massachusetts
Collection of the Boston Museum of Fine Arts

If you are looking to create an early quilt you will want some woodblock copies in your stash.
But what to look for?

Detail of a pocket with block-printed chintz and calico.
Registration exceptionally poor in the calico. Note the overlap in the red and brown figures

1) Soft, fuzzy edges to the figures rather than the sharp edges obtained with roller or cylinder printing.

Cylinder print about 1830= Sharp edges


Vintage woodblock print with poor registration in the red
and no sharpness.
2) Simple figures

Reproduction: Collections for a Cause: Community


3) For small prints: a good proportion of background space between the figures.

Paniers Fleurs from French General, reproduction print

3) Crude printing but....

You really can't find poor registration in repros today. Printers take too much pride in their work to do accurate copies of inaccurate woodblocks.

Vintage star from Cyndi's collection at Busy Thimble

Look for medium-size prints as well as large chintzes and small calicoes.

Not all wood block prints are crude however.

Swatch 1790s

This neat stripe is from American printer Archibald Rowen's mill book of samples at the Winterthur Museum. It's a well-done little print, evidence that post-Revolutionary American printworks could produce fabric to rival the French and English.

http://museumblog.winterthur.org/2015/04/01/the-adventures-of-archibald-hamilton-rowan-textile-manufacturer-on-the-banks-of-the-brandywine/

Reproductions


Old Glory by Nancy Gere
The obvious blotch grounds are good repros.

Froncie Quinn's In the Time of Toile
reproduced a block print with a net-like ground.
This isn't a fancy-machine ground done with a metal roller, but a fancy ground probably produced with some kind of a block.

Here's an original version on the cover of Linda Eaton's Printed Textiles.


Judy Severson used the mustard yellow version of Time of Toile
as a border on her star medallion.



Den Haan & Wagenmakers. 
The Dutch source for excellent woodblock repros.
See Val's block at the top of the page.

You need small prints too. Woodblocks were excellent at producing these.

7 Brothers from my Lately Arrived From London

Repro block by Becky Brown. She also fussy cut
a simple rose print.


These little sprigs set foulard-style are good too: Simple figures set
in a lot of background space. The yellow from Circa 1825 from In the Beginning,
the pink from my Lately Arrived From London. There are no fancy
backgrounds or shading.

Quilt dated 1822 with a typical wood block calico

The basic figures with little detail are often widely spaced in a half-drop repeat (foulard) set, which
makes them rather spotty.

Feeling Chintzy by Minay Sirois (Reproduction)

That early taste for widely spaced figures makes for a good reproduction. If you want an accurate early look you want spotty prints.

King George III, reproduction pattern
by Sue Ambrose.

This reproduction in accurate Georgian-British
style owes a lot to the many small block-printed-style designs.

What to Do with Your Stack of Stars?
Alternate Darks and Lights

Sawtooth Star by Diana McClun and Laura Nownes

64 stars finishing to 6" = 48" x 48" quilt




One More Thing About Wood Block Prints

Block-printing is still done by hand in many cultures around the world.
Look for block-printed Indiennes (Indian-style prints).

And Japanese Katazome prints


A few pieces of these true woodblocks can give an early look to your stars.

Repro star by Bettina Havig
Two-color print, simple florals, figures spaced widely

See More of Graham Keegan's work here:

Raffle Quilt from the Mississippi Valley Fair 1864

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Patriotic silk quilt raffled at the Mississippi Valley Sanitary Fair, 1864.
Collection of the Missouri History Museum

A while ago I showed photographs of the Mississippi Valley Sanitary Fair held in St. Louis.


J. A. Scholten's photos give us a glimpse of the women's work at the event in the spring of 1864.
We get more information from The Daily Countersign.


The Ladies' Executive Committee published a newspaper full of description of the handcrafts on display in the Bedcoverings & Quilts booth and other locations.


 There the silk quilt at the top of the page was described as "most noticeable".

"... a heavy silk quilt, made entirely of the national colors, beautifully combined, and corded heavily with scarlet, finished at the corners by tassels. We understand no definite price has yet been fixed upon it, but it will be raffled for before the close of the Fair, so those who desire it would do well to secure their chance."

The quilt is now in the collection of  St. Louis's Missouri History Museum, which gives us the information that the quilt was won by Miss Lizzie Haussler. One caption tells us:

"The quilt was reputedly donated to the fair by Gen. William T. Sherman, but no evidence to support that claim has been found."

The star border on the raffle quilt was popular for
Union patriotic quilts, inspired by a pattern for a "Stars and Stripes" bedquilt
 in Peterson's Magazine in 1861.


The museum quilt and its history at the fair is a rare example of surviving material culture (the quilt) linked to a published account---not only the Fair description but the published pattern.

See the quilt at the Civil War Missouri site:
And see more about the Peterson's Magazine pattern here:
http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2011/07/30-petersons-stars-stripes.htm

Stars in a Time Warp 26: Pillar Prints

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Reproduction star by Becky Brown
featuring a pillar print.

Vintage Pillar Print with a yellow ground

The early nineteenth-century mania for stripes created a vogue for a pattern variation that textile historians today call pillar prints. Design echoes the classical architecture of ancient Greece and Rome with stripes assuming the form of fluted, rounded columns interrupted by ornate capitals and garlands of flowers. 

Blue blotch ground behind a pillar print
Other names for the designs are “architectural prints” or "columnar prints."

Pillar prints were a specialty of England's textile mills. The French, the Dutch, and the Swiss had no interest in printing or using them. A major market was Americans who were styling their new nation on the ideals of ancient Greece.


Two pillar prints for the American market

Americans infatuated with all forms of classical design favored large-scale pillar print between 1800 and 1840. The designs were not only printed in full-chintz colors but as monochrome toiles.

Early-19th-century quilt from an ad in The Clarion,
Summer, 1989. Pillar print in the border.


 Florence McConnell's reproduction of the Borden Family Quilt at the 
New England Quilt Museum below.
Florence interpreted the original at smaller scale for the
American Quilt Study Group's Star Study, 2010.


Detail of Florence's with repro pillar print.

Another quilt with the same pillar print border (?) from the 
New England Quilt Museum.

Pillar prints seem to have been quite popular with New England quilters in the 1810-1840 years.

Sarah's Nine Patch reproduction,
using the copy of the antique print below.

Colossal Columns by Kathy Hall from the American Folk Art Museum


Bettina's repro star
captures the out-of-scale look that
we often see in early patchwork.

I found this piece of the same print in purple

Becky fussy-cut 

to make a vivid star.

Source for this antique medallion? 

The center star is pieced of pillar print fragments

Reminding you that even if you don't want to feature a particular print you can include scraps to create an authentic look.

Reproductions

Lately Arrived from London

I've reproduced several pillar prints over the years.


See Sandra Starley's quilt made with this print here:
http://starleyquilts.blogspot.com/2011/08/1830s-eagle.html
Above and below, two by Nancy Gere



Terry Thompson and I did this reproduction in Coral Gardens.

It's the same print that's in this detail

Chintz quilt with pillar print border.
Collection of the Spencer Museum of Art.

What to Do With Your Stack of Stars?
Use pillar prints for the setting blocks and border with a chintz.

Pillar Prints set in every direction in an early quilt top from the collection of
Old Sturbridge Village



Historic New England has a similar quilt:

Another star and pillar from the Crane House on
Barbara Schaffer's blog



Sumptuous Stars by Barb Vedder

A chintz pillar print for the border.

Other chintz border ideas...
(A review of the last few weeks)

Dark ground chintz (vintage quilt from William Bunch Auctions)

Or a light ground as in this Broderie Perse Quilt by Fannie E Wright & Eliza Bacon

A Fancy machine ground

Quilt from Historic Deerfield Museum
A blue blotch ground

From collection of Marilyn Woodin
A border stripe

One More Thing About Pillar Prints

The term "pillar print" seems to be rather recent, a mid-twentieth-century description. The earliest reference I have found to fabric by searching Google's digitized books in a 1956 British publication. 


The term is more commonly used to describe Japanese wood blocks on paper, in which a pillar print (hashira-ye) is a long, narrow print meant to hang from a wooden pillar in a house.

Read more about pillar prints at a post here:

See Laura Syler's Pinterest page

Civil War Quilts Exhibited in Los Angeles

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Fisk Quilt, 1864
On Exhibit at the Pasadena Museum of History.
The Sanitary Commission's stamp is on the reverse.

During a recent trip to Los Angeles I saw two historical exhibits about the Civil War in the west. I was surprised to find five Civil-War-related antique quilts

Red work quilt with unit badges from the 
Grand Army of the Republic
Veteran's Organization, about 1900, also at the 
 Pasadena Museum of History.



Two more quilts are included in the show When Johnny Came Marching West: How the Civil War Shaped Pasadena, which runs through September 20, 2015.

http://pasadenahistory.org/all-exhibits/johnny-came-marching-west-civil-war-shaped-pasadena/

See a blog post here:
http://pasadenahistory.org/curators-blog/wrc/


Detail of a Confederate applique quilt made by 
Susan Robb,1861-1862. 
Collection of the Museum of Texas Tech University

The Autry Museum in Griffith Park features a show called Empire and Liberty: The Civil War in the West. There's only one quilt in this large exhibit but it's spectacular.

This exhibit will be up through January 3, 2016.
http://civilwar.theautry.org/

Another detail of the Robb quilt shows an orange pelican (or stork?),
a  Southern symbol, vanquishing the green eagle.

To see a large picture of the Robb quilt click here:
http://worldquilts.quiltstudy.org/americanstory/node/6268

I'll show you more about the five quilts over the summer.


Stars in a Time Warp 27: Quercitron and Arborescent Chintzes

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A drab-style reproduction star by Bettina Havig

 Detail of a quilt from Stella Rubin's shop

Reproduction block by Becky Brown

That curious yellow was originally printed with quercitron, a fast yellow vegetable dye suitable for printing.

The fugitive yellow (not quercitron) is barely visible in this chintz.
When it was brighter the leaves were greener.

Yellows in natural dyes are abundant, but fast yellows suitable for printing were hard to find. Yellow’s unreliability is a reason we see so many blue leaves in old botanical chintzes like the one above.


Vintage quilt
The yellow figure in the border may have
been printed with quercitron dye.

Textile historian Peter Floud considered the discovery of a faster, printable yellow England’s major contribution to 18th century-dye chemistry.

Vintage pillar print possibly printed with quercitron

About 1785 Englishman Edward Bancroft visited Massachusetts and found Americans using yellow dye from the bark of the North American black oak tree. He obtained an English patent for black oak bark and coined the word ‘quercitron" from the Latin quercus for oak and citrina, probably referring to a yellow fruit.

Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum
Floud's example of a "drab-style" print is this
pillar print printed with quercitron.
Note it's also printed with a fancy ground.

When Bancroft’s fifteen-year patent expired in 1800, British mills created a rage for the dye called "bark" in the trade. It was inexpensive; it was colorfast and the color combinations were novel. Quercitron's palette of yellow, green and brown came to be called "drab." 

Back of a quilt  dated 1846 from the 
Nickol's collection at the Mingei Museum

Green, brown and yellow: the major characteristics of drab-style prints.


Pansy, vintage print  from the collection of the 
Metropolitan Museum of Art


Becky's repro star uses the same quercitron copy as Bettina's,
courtesy of my scrapbag. I've been collecting this
color combination for quite a while.

My dictionary still defines drab as a light olive brown, but today's common meaning is dull or commonplace. Describing quercitron’s color scheme as drab style confuses us because there is nothing dull or commonplace about it. Bright mustards set against dark brown grounds with shades of olive green can be quite vivid.

Drab-style birds in a Baltimore album block

A drab-style print borders this hexagon quilt
pictured on the cover of Massachusetts Quilts



Jeremy Adamson dated the English fad for drab prints to 1800-1812 but the fashion seems to have continued in American quilts through the first quarter and into the 1830s and ‘40s.

French swatchbook with several drab syle prints, 1825
You see a lot of mustard yellows and red, but
technically these are not drab-style.

Drab-style prints included all the shades possible from quercitron, including a blue. Florence Montgomery made the point that is really the absence of reds and purples that defines drab. In theory, dyers could print cotton in drab style shades first and then print with madder to obtain the full range of colors from yellow and green through red and purple, but this doubling of techniques was expensive and, she noted, rarely done.


Vintage chintz about 1825
I include olives, browns and mustards with red
in the quercitron category of vintage prints.

Drab-style prints were a favorite for arborsecent prints---chintzes with gnarly tree branches.



Arborescent chintz with a pale green background.
The overdyed greens and bright yellow indicate this has
not been printed with quercitron in drab-style. It's a full color chintz.

An arborescent chintz on the right from the Connecticut project. 
Photo from the Quilt Index

Palampore sold at Christies
The gnarly tree is an offshoot of the tree-of-life imagery.

An India Print Bedspread or a real palampore in a decorating suggestion?

Reproductions

Becky's bright block has a chintz with that olive/mustard color palette
AND a fancy ground.

Jo Morton's Bird Chintz is an arborescent chintz
in quercitron colors.

You may have hesitated to buy these mustard yellow reproductions
but now you know why you need them.

From Nancy Gere

And Judie Rothermel

From Collections for a Cause: Community

Petra Prins's Dutch Prints

An upholstery grade arborescent repro

This week you can stitch stars in 
  • quercitron yellow,
  • prints in drab style or 
  • arboresecent chintzes in any shade.
Drab-style stripe in a repro by Becky Brown

What to Do with Your Stack of Stars?
Alternate a Different Star.

Quilt signed ELH; Dated 1839
Collection of the Shelburne Museum


ELH's star has been one of my favorite quilts since I first saw
it in black and white in a Shelburne Museum catalog.

Carol Jones and I made this baby quilt from
the Seneca Falls fabric collection for Moda.


The other star in the pair is #2141c in BlockBase.
Carrie Hall called it Ohio Star in her 1935 book but
this star was pieced into patchwork before there was an Ohio.

Polly Green's interpetation of the 1839 Shelburne quilt

Lori Smith calls it Virginia's Star.
It looks good in shades of quercitron.

Virginia's Quilt by Cupcakes and Daisies

Any Sawtooth Star would coordinate....

Here's Block Base #2146, a variation on the 
Barbara Frietchie Star.


One More Thing About Quercitron

Vintage medallion quilt

Quercitron can be printed with mordants similar to the way madder is printed. Different mordants produce different shades of olive, brown and yellow in that characteristic mustard shade. Mordant printing is extremely useful because the printer applies different mordants (usually metal salts) and then dips the fabric in a single dye bath. It's a relatively inexpensive process and the registration is good as in that scenic bridge print in the quilt above..

Read more about quercitron and drab at this post:


Reproduction star by Becky Brown
If you prefer olive greens to bright, over-dyed green calicoes
you can tell everyone you are focusing on early drab-style prints.

Slave quilts and Code

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An antebellum silk quilt



In November 4, 1853, The Richmond Dispatch recorded the handmade items seen at the local agricultural fair.
"Silk bedquilt made of cast off dresses, by Jane, at night. Mrs. Evans."
Everyone in slave-holding Virginia would have understood the code.

Jane, with no last name, was a slave, probably belonging to Mrs. Evans. She made the quilt "at night," meaning on her own time after her daily duties were over. The materials were "cast off dresses," silks that were no longer fashionable, probably from the wardrobes of the slave-holding family.

Silks in plaids, stripes and solids fashionable for
mid-century women's dresses

Did Jane keep the quilt since she made it on her own time at night?

Also notice under the mention of a "mammoth cake of soap" there is a straw chair: "The handiwork of an old Virginia darky." Perhaps this man with no name at all was a free black.

Another provacative reference I recently came across:



In her book The Reconstruction of White Southern Womanhood, 1865-1895, Jane Turner Censer quotes Jane Alston writing her oldest daughter Lucy:
"Well, my quilt is in the frame, and Ella [her youngest daughter] and I are putting some regular darkey quilting on it."
This code is a little harder to understand but author Censer explains that post-Civil-War changes including poverty and lack of slaves forced women into doing work they considered beneath them. Work traditionally done by slaves was hard to reconcile with one's aristocratic self-image.


"Regular darkey quilting" perhaps a code for labor-intensive handwork?

Pre-Civil-War quilt with heavy quilting, cording  and stuffed work
in the pattern we often call North Carolina lily.

So we can conclude that at least in the Alston family of Warren County, North Carolina, the slaves had done the quilting. Is it true, as Censer writes, that "antebellum planter wives...almost never quilted?"

The answers would require a lot more evidence, but both descriptions add a little to our understanding of pre-Civil-War quilts from slave-holding states.

Another heavily quilted variation of the Carolina Lily

Jane Crichton Alston's letters are unpublished. See more about them in the Southern Historical Collection, Wilson Library, University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill 
http://www2.lib.unc.edu/mss/inv/w/Williams,Lucy_Tunstall_Alston.html

Stars in a Time Warp 28: Early Indigo Prints

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Reproduction star by Becky Brown using 
Minick & Simpson's Indigo Crossing

18th-century quilts might feature these large-scale indigo prints fashionable for furnishings.

An 18th-century period room at the Shelburne Museum shows
the scale of early indigo prints. From a vintage postcard.

The scale on these bed hangings is enormous,.


Printing figures with indigo is difficult to do and to understand. We could go into the various ways these blue and white furnishing prints were produced but I'm not that sure what's a resist print, a discharged print, a block-printed design or one painted by hand. Experts wonder if they are domestically produced or imported from Europe or India.

So let's just focus on getting the look.


People wore them for clothing. Above a
European woman in traditional rural dress but fashionable
city dwellers wore these too.

Reproduction from Indigo Crossing by Minick & Simpson
This is an accurate copy of the vintage piece above.
Smaller scale though.

You are looking for large-scale blue and white prints, either navy blue or lighter blue.

Another take on the early indigo star by Becky Brown

Frame quilt from the Winterthur Museum collection.
This  print is done in light blues and dark indigoes.

Several of the prints recur in various early textiles.

"Very old blue and white resist print"
Gift from Florence Peto to Elizabeth Richardson
Collection of Western Kentucky University

One characteristic is a certain crudeness to the print.

This one is atypically crude. Most are more skillfully done, but you tend to see large areas
of color with no fine detail.


The Metropolitan Museum of Art put this double blue on the cover of their Interwoven Globe textile
show last year.


If you are thinking of doing a quilt echoing the Revolutionary War period,
you might consider a wholecloth indigo print at a giant scale.

 Reproductions

Indigo Crossings from Minick & Simpson reproduced the look
for quilters.

The designers with a strip quilt behind them showing the scale
of their largest print.



Midwest Crossings
Quilt kit and pattern by Jennifer Overstreet using the line

Nancy Gere's Low Country Indigo stars are
set with the large print from her line.



Stella Bella's block for indigo blue
has a bit of the scale of the old American indigo resist.
When you're working at 6" you can fool the eye as far as scale.

Reproduction block by Bettina Havig using a true indigo print
from Europe.

You may find it easier to buy upholstery fabric for these early indigos

Tucker resist by Waverly

A den in colonial style. 

Those period rooms (see the top of
the page) continue to define traditional interiors:
Gate-leg tables, red Oriental rugs and indigo drapes.

Batik Indigo from P. Kaufman

The upholstery fabric costs about twice as much as quilt fabric
but you don't need much to add an early period look to your stars.
And remember it's wider.

What to Do with Your Stack of Stars?
Stitch a Field of Patchwork.

The Sarah Johnson quilt by Barb Perrin

When these indigo prints were the rage in the late-18th century
quilters tended to focus on a central image floating in a sea of patchwork.

Hoopla pattern for this Shelburne Museum quilt repro
When Sarah Johnson made the original, dated 1828,
she used the same sawtooth star we are using.

A sketch in EQ7 of 72 six-inch stars around a center finishing to 18".
54" x 54"

Kensington Square by Val Naden reproduction

Val's focus was the John Hewson  panel
by Kathy Hall.

1811 Hewson quilt, Cincinnati Art Museum

The panel was inspired by Hewson's block-printed design with vase, birds and butterflies.
The quilt above alternates stars with plain blocks for the patchwork field. 

The field of patchwork with a central focus is a signature design in early quilts.

Quilt dated 1815. Rhode Island Project. Quilt Index photo.

This early quilt has a very small center focus in a field of patchwork nine-patches. Is that center white
square one of the Hewson Butterflies?


 Anna Tuel's Quilt, 1785, Wadsworth Atheneum
The field was often simple triangles.

Quilt dated 1806, Delaware Historical Society

But simple stars are also seen quite early.

Di Ford's Miss Porter's Quilt echoes a quilt dated in the 1770s.

Quilt signed R Porter,
Collection of the American Museum in Bath

Some recent quilts inspired by early design ideas:

Bettina Havig, Feathered Star Medallion



Leonie Bateman and Deirdre Bond-Abel for their 
Elegant Quilts, Country Charm book

Lizzy Mae's Medallion by Lori Smith

Whose pattern?


Dawn Heese's version of a Blackbird Design. 

Update the look by placing the focus to one side. Offset symmetry is a characteristic of Blackbird's designers Barb and Alma.

I found this one on Laura Nagel's Pinterest board.

One More Thing about Early Indigoes


The International Quilt Study Center and Museum has an online show, Indigo Gives America the Blues, in which they explain various kinds of indigo printing.


They call this week's style
American Indigo Resist:
Mid to Late - 1700s


The Fisk Sanitary Commission Quilt

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During the Civil War the Union Sanitary Commission
collected bedding for hospitalized soldiers and 
encouraged women to make and donate quilts.

This summer the Pasadena History Museum is showing a quilt date-inscribed 1864 with the Sanitary Commission stamp on the back.

The label tells the story about a war-time romance.
The quilt led to the marriage of
Captain Robert E. Fisk and Elizabeth Chester.

Captain R.E. Fisk
1837-1908
New York Infantry

Robert Fisk was recovering from wounds in a North Carolina hospital when a representative of the Sanitary Commission gave him a quilt made by a group in Vernon, Connecticut, in 1864.

The Fisk quilt is in the collection of the 
Lincoln Memorial Shrine
in Redlands, California

Block inked Rowena A. Clark

Mrs. Mary Hall
Vernon 
Ct

Mrs. Ruth Baker
Vernon
Ct

Vernon Center in 1836

Several Mrs. and Misses signed the blocks. Robert Fisk wrote Miss Fannie Chester thanking them for the gift. She'd apparently written her name and that of Lissie C. Corbin on a sheet of paper included with the quilt. His letter has been published:

September 18, 1864
Miss Fannie Chester:
This is to show that I am the recipient, through the U.S. Sanitary Commission of the Patchwork bed cover or quilt, which you had a hand in constructing.
 
I am deeply sensible of the obligation I am under to you and your fair companions for this your contribution to my comfort....I am proud to testify to the many sterling virtues of New England women: endowed, generally, with rarest gifts of face and from, and educated in head and heart to adorn the loftiest sphere of the sex, the women of New England stand preeminent in the estimation of their countrymen as the truest sweethearts, the best wives, and most perfect mothers in the land.
I should be much please to hear that this note reached you in safety.....

Union soldiers at the Foster Hospital 
in New Bern, North Carolina


(I hoped to see Fannie Chester's name on the quilt but it was displayed on a flat table. I couldn't get close enough to read all the names and did not find hers. It may not be on there, but only on the slip of paper she enclosed.)

The Mrs. in the group thought 16-year-old Fannie too young to write to a stranger, so older sister Lizzie wrote Fisk explaining that there would be no correspondence from Fannie.

October 3, 1864
Capt. R.E.Fisk,
A few days since, I had the pleasure of receiving two letters written by you addressed to my sister, Miss Fannie Chester, and Lissie C. Corbin. The former being at present busily engaged in school duties and the latter having reached the very mature age of (to use her own words) "two old last July." I have been deputed to answer the said communications..."

Elizabeth Chester Fisk 1846-1927

Undeterred, Capt Fish wondered if Lizzie might be interested in corresponding with a lonely soldier?

The story of Lizzie and Robert has been published many times. Below may be the earliest.

Romance of Marriage.
From the Tolland Connecticut Journal, 1867 
Two weeks ago we published the marriage in this town of Capt. Robert E. Fiske (sic), editor of the Helena (Montana) Herald, to Miss Lizzie Chester. Since that time we have learned that there is a romance connected with this affair which is worth telling. When the war of the rebellion broke out Mr. Fiske was a resident of New York, from which State he enlisted in the union army and attained to the rank of captain. In some one of the engagements he was wounded, and taken to an army hospital.-- 
While he was thus confined, it appears that the ladies of our town of Vernon were at work for the soldiers, and among other things which they provided and sent as hospital stores, was an "album bedquilt," containing the names of the several ladies who assisted in its construction. As luck would have it, this bedquilt found its way to the hospital and the very bed upon which the wounded captain lay; and for amusement he copied the names, sending his letter or photograph, or both, to the address of every lady. One of these letters was received by a little girl, who procured the services of Miss Chester to reply. 
We need not particularize further, but it was simply through the agency of this album bedquilt that captain Fiske heard of Miss Chester, and now, after the lapse of two years, that acquaintance has culminated in marriage, and the gallant officer has taken his fair lady to his home in the far west.

Berthold photo of the Fisk Expedition to the
 Montana Territory in 1866 

Robert's brother James organized several immigrant treks. Robert joined other family members on the 1866 journey to Montana, then returned to Connecticut to marry Lizzie on March 21, 1867.

Helena, Montana in 1872.
Five Fisk brothers were among influential Montana settlers.

Helena Herald, 1875

Robert, whose letters to Lizzie must have been quite persuasive, was editor of the Helena Herald. Three of his brothers were also newspapermen.
Robert Fisk

Robert and Lizzie kept the quilt that brought them together. Both became important social leaders in Helena.

All I could read in this block is the date 1864.

Robert, Lizzie and children in front of their Helena house built in 1871

The Fisks added to this structure, which survives as a larger house. See a National Park Service post on the Fisk house and the family.


Berkeley train station, 1907

In 1902 they sold the newspaper and moved to Berkeley, California, Somehow the quilt made its way to the Lincoln Memorial Shrine museum and temporarily to the display at the Pasadena History Museum.

I published the tale of the Fisk romance in my book Quilts From the Civil War. I had no idea that the quilt survived. I'd seen snapshots of an album quilt on display at the Lincoln Shrine but did not find any references to the quilt's history so didn't know until I saw the label at the Pasadena museum that this was indeed the famous romantic bedquilt.

The quilt seems to have been
on permanent display at the
 Lincoln Memorial Shrine in Redlands

It's another relatively rare example of written history and an antique quilt coming together.

Read Wilene Smith's post on the Fisks here:

The Fisk papers are conserved in the Northwest Digital Archive.
The collection include Lizzie's letters and diaries and a story by daughter Florence Fisk White. "'The Autograph Quilt,' tells the of a quilt made for Civil War soldiers, and how it led to Elizabeth meeting her future husband."

Lizzie's papers and the early letters between Captain Fisk and the Chester girls have been published in book form:
Lizzie: The Letters of Elizabeth Chester Fisk, 1864-1893, edited by Rex C. Myers (Missoula: Mountain Press, 1989)

See more about the Lincoln Memorial Shrine here:


I found a little about another woman on the quilt, Rowena Clark was born in Vernon about 1838 and married Frederick Edward Stanley in 1884, so she was in her mid-twenties when the quilt was made.

Stars in a Time Warp 29: Lapis Blue

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Val's repro star for white ground chintz
captures the popular red, white and blue color scheme.

Vintage chintz

In the 18th- and early 19th-century a color style combining red and a bright blue was quite the thing.
The blue was indigo; the red from madder.

The dyes used to print the color combination
worked quite differently, making the popular
palette difficult for printers to produce.

Early-19th-century quilt
Printers had to leave a white halo or space between the red and the blue.

Detail of a hand-painted and block-printed Indian palampore.
Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Some designers planned the gaps between the reds and the blues. Others had a more devil-may-care attitude.

Early-19th-century blotch-ground chintz.


In 1808, textile engineers figured out how to print reds (or other colors) registered right next to an indigo blue.


Calicoes from old blocks showing madder reds and indigo blues 
printed adjacently without the intervening white spaces 
that had been necessary prior to 1808.


Designers still could add white for effect but note how the
red touches the blue especially in that red scallop.

The mills called these red on blue prints Lapis prints,

Lapis cufflink

using the name of the vivid blue stone. Another name
was lazulite for another blue mineral.

From William Crooke's printing manual.

In 1874 Crookes described, "A modification of indigo work...so-called Lazulite, neutral, or lapis style."
He outlined the complicated formula, even though "the lazulite style is at present in very little request...As fashion may revive at any moment, it should not be overlooked."

Fashion did not revive, so the blue and red combination is a good clue to an early quilt. And something to add to your shopping list.


Why is it important to know the difference between a true lapis
print and a blue ground with white haloes? If you are a quilt
detective you can use the information as a clue in dating.
The lapis print above had to be printed after 1808.

Reproductions

Lexington quilter found a stripe with red and blue
separated by white for one of her repro blocks.

Becky couldn't find any red, blue and white chintzes in her
stash. Here's the closest red and blue priints she could come up with.
But they are terrific blocks. Not only will the bird remind us
to buy some lapis style prints; she can remind us how good primary colors look together.
And why people wanted red and blue in the same print.

Another by Becky.
Can we count the blue and red berry as a lapis print.
Why not???

S.F.'s repro star has a copy of a blue ground chintz. The reproduction gives a hint of the haloes once necessary to print blue and red in the same design.



Stella Bella's small repro quilt makes the most of a
 traditional blue and red palette.

As does Austin Manor from Harriett Hargrave.

It doesn't really matter if your reproduction prints
are true lapis style or just blue and red chintzes and calicoes.

Deatil of a Hickory Leaf repro quilt by me,
 showing two red + blues in the upper left block

Broderie Perse by Roseanne Smith
Center of a quilt.

Above and below are blue-ground chintzes Terry Thompson
and I did over a decade ago for Moda.

Look for blue ground chintzes and smaller-scale prints
with lots of red in the figures.
The print is in the eage in the top border below.

Barbara Fritchie Star
by Jean Stanclift and Shirlene Wedd

Karla Menaugh and I designed the pattern and picked the fabric.
Jean and Shirlene did their deft sewing.
One of our favorite quilts from our old Sunflower Pattern Co-op days.

Stripes from Nancy Gere

Ginger Coral by John Robshaw
And, as always with these early prints, look at upholstery reproductions.


What to Do with Your Stack of Stars?
Shade the composition.

Quilt dated 1832 by Rebecca Burroughs,
 possibly Pennsylvania

Nine Patch from the collection of the International Quilt Study Center and Museum.
#2003-003-0162


Quilt dated 1832 from Chester County, Pennsylvania

Similar idea in a nine patch from the collection
of the American Museum in Bath---a hot design idea in 1832 in Pennsylvania???

Early quilters favored a central focus. They shaded the overall composition to create one, arranging the repeat blocks in areas of lights and darks.

Baby Blooming Nine Patch by Lynn Stalowy
Reproduction top.

Or one might shade the alternate setting squares as well as the blocks. The Blooming Nine Patch was an idea from Blanche Young's 1996 book Tradition with a Twist.

Simple stars could be substituted for nine-patches.

Reproduction top by Bobbi Finley and friends

We shaded the setting squares to mimic a strip quilt. The fabrics were strike-offs from my Lately Arrived from London line. The blues were never actually printed to be sold. We had too many choices and that colorway had to go. (Too bad for blues fans including me.)

There are many ways to shade the overall composition.

The star quilt on the cover of the McCloskey-Martin book Variable Star Quilts shows shading without the medallion-like focus you often see in early quilts. The shading moves the eye across the composition.

One More Thing About Blue and Red Prints

Detail of a foulard-set florette with a white halo
from an early 19th-century quilt

Even after 1808 when blues and reds could be printed adjacently without the intervening white spaces printers continued to include the halo. The calico above is in a style we might call a provincial print, a mignonette or an Indienne. The necessity for a halo became a style in itself. 


Savonnerie by Sandy Klop/American Jane

The reproductions of these Provincial style prints tend to be rather minimalist lately and the blues are quite intense. But now you know what historical styles are the inspiration.

We'll discuss these classic prints later, but this week's a good time to see if you have any red on blue or blue on red provincial prints in your stash.

A Quilt for Jefferson Davis

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Silk Star Quilt in the collection of the Museum of the Confederacy,
Another of the Museum's treasures.

The large hexagons between the stars are decorated with
embroidery. A few have Confederate flags embroidered
over officer's names.

A flag for General Leonidas Polk. 

This quilt is undoubtedly the "Crazy Quilt" described in the New York Times article below.

New York Times, January 26, 1895

Davis's widow Varina Davis donated it to the Hollywood Memorial Association (now the Museum of the Confederacy) in Richmond in 1895. It's not really a crazy quilt, meaning random shaped pieces, but people often refer to embroidered silk quilts as generic "crazy quilts."

The Museum's Ann Tidmore described the quilt in a blog post. The star quilt was "made for President Davis by 15 women of Richmond, including Varina Davis....The ladies made it for the President during the stormiest part of the 'War For States Rights'. Every piece was made by a different person, and embroidered with pieces of sewing silk left over from the years of ease and plenty. Once when President Davis was sleeping under it, he asked that it be taken off and 'put away with lavender' which is an old fashion term which meant 'with great care'.


The quilt is in poor condition. Those weighted dress silks just don't hold up over time.

See a fabulous photo at the Museum of the Confederacy's website. Upload their quilt file and then scroll through till you find this one. Enlarge it and you can focus on small details.

http://www.moc.org/exhibitions/museum-confederacys-quilts?mode=general

For more about another silk quilt in the collection, this one the sole work of Varina Davis, see these two posts:

http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2015/05/varina-daviss-butterfly-quilt.html
http://civilwarquilts.blogspot.com/2015/05/varina-daviss-butterfly-quilt-part-ii.html


Stars in a Time Warp: 30 Floral Trails

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Star block by Becky Brown
with four colorways of a floral trails reproduction print

Antique quilt about 1830
The brown-ground print on the edges above
meanders in a floral trail. Other figures are set in foulard-style
half drop fashion and some are scattered.


Terry Thompson and I did a similar floral trail
for our Spencer Museum of Art Collection years ago.


Val D's repro pillar print block used three prints from that line,
including the same print in yellow and a red floral trail for the corners.


Vintage star set with a shady-ground chintz in a floral trails set

Dark brown chintzes and calicoes were fashionable in the 18th century and are found in the earliest American patchwork quilts after 1775 or so.


Vintage quilt detail from Cyndi at Busy Thimble, 
glaze still on the chintz.

Dark or shady grounds were popular coloring for prints featuring plants that spread across the surface. These flowers and leaves on meandering vines have been called Floral Trails by the designers.


Quilt by Elizabeth Nace, date-inscribed 1796, 
 one of the earliest dated American patchwork quilts

The border features a brown ground print in a regular grid set, a formal contrast to the floral trail in the nine-patches.

This quilt is in the collection of the Lancaster
Heritage Museum

Late-18th-century dress.
Collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Floral trails were popular on white grounds too.



Reproduction block by Becky Brown using a light
ground floral trail for the background.

An early quilt featuring a blue on white floral trail.


Notice the rose print trailing across a stripe. Floral trail plus a fancy ground---
a later style. Floral trails continued popular into the 1830s.

Reproductions

Petra Prins's Dutch Heritage chintzes feature this excellent example.

Becky Brown used a plum from my Lately Arrived from London for the star's
background.
She has quite a few floral trails in her stash, and we hope you do too.
This week you can stitch a star with a dark-ground floral trail
and/or 
-a dark ground print
-or a floral trail print.

From Moda's Collections for a Cause: Faith

I reproduced this mid-19th-century floral trail for
Civil War Jubilee.

What to Do with Your Stack of Stars?
Create an Energetic Composition by Alternating blocks of Busy Chintz.

Cyndi at the Busy Thimble bought this classic star in Maine.

A bad online picture of a similar Maine quilt.



Star alternated with toile-style print
These early quiltmakers seemed to enjoy the visual noise.
A symphony it is not!
I like to see it as a fight between the fabric and the patchwork.
No winner but what fun to see.

Prussian Peacocks
Reproduction by whom???

UPDATE: Rietje and Wendy both recognized this as a Jinny Beyer print from about 1990.
Rietje still has some peacocks left in hers.



A great interpretation.

A bird and tree print, an arborescent chintz
and a lapis print all in one.

Now if this vintage style is too much for you try a 
simple white ground chintz.

American Beauty, reproduction quilt and 
pattern by Alison Vandertag

Alison has captured some of the period look but tamed it with high contrast patchwork, lower contrast fabric and two or three borders.
More symphony than noise.

One More Thing About Floral Trails

Early frame quilt with two floral trail chintzes
in light and dark from the collection of 
Michigan State University

Floral Trails were so popular about 1800 that you see a definite early quilt style featuring meandering blooms in dark and light ground chintzes

Collection of the Helen F. Spencer Museum at the University of Kansas.

Detail of the Spencer quilt

We copied the light print above for the Spencer Museum of Art Collection.


Note the lapis blue in the top strip here, meaning this is probably after 1810.

Chocolate or plum brown was such an early favorite that a dark
ground, floral trail can be a clue to a late-18th-century or early 19th-century quilt.



Hallie Larkin at The Golden Scissors blog posted about Dark Ground chintzes, giving us some period references for names for fashionable fabric from 1749 to 1772.

Here are a two:
"purple spot and dark ground calicoes"-Pennsylvania Gazette, December 27, 1749 
"fine dark ground chintz" - Pennsylvania Gazette, July 18, 1754

A Tennessee UDC Quilt

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"Made by the Fifth Tenn. Reg Chapter, U.D.C. No. 535, Paris, Tenn."
The center square is embroidered in white thread

The late-19th/early-20th century quilt is from the collection of the 
Paris-Henry County Heritage Center 

The quilt was made by members of the United Daughters of the Confederacy at the turn of the century. Names include Civil War veterans who fought for the South plus Paris, Tennessee, community members. The museum's description:
"Each 6-inch by 2-inch rectangle contains the name of a Confederate soldier, son or daughter sewn in red thread in cursive writing on a white cotton background."

A 1907 list of the officers at the Paris chapter.


The quilt is obviously in bad condition. Someone has stitched two strips to the top and the bottom,
perhaps to cover up the damage, perhaps to function as protectors for the edges of the quilt. The printed "beard protector" chosen to march the tan squares did not protect the quilt from mice.

It looks like the block is based on the 1:1:1 nine patch with a strip in the center for a name embroidered in Turkey red cotton thread. Each square finishes to 2", the name strips to 2" x 6".

The thread is probably genuine Turkey red thread, which holds its color. Perhaps the pinkish tan squares were once red too, but it was hard to find genuine Turkey red cottons at the time. Many red fabrics faded to this particular pale orange shade.

In the basket quilt from the same time,  the fabric was a combination of  colorfast, natural Turkey red cottons and red solids dyed with the new, fugitive synthetic dyes. The reds may have looked the same in 1900 but time has sorted them into fast and fugitive.


The blocks were set with a sash the same size as the squares and rectangles in the block. Names were embroidered in the sashing rectangles too. I imagine when it was new it was quite a handsome red and white quilt.

But it might have been blue and white with red names. Blues if they
were not indigo blue or Prussain blue faded too.
I doubt the commemorative quilt was intended to be the subdued design we see now.

Read a newspaper article about the quilt here:

Stars in a Time Warp 31: Toiles

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Reproduction star of toile by Becky Brown

Here's the repro furnishing fabric she started with.

Vintage block about 1830

"Printed linens done by copper-plates; they are excessive pretty." Mary Delany.

Vintage block about 1830
The corners are toile-style monochrome prints.

Artists have used metal plates to produce etchings, engravings and other paper prints since the 15th century. Fabric printers used a similar plate process with inks to make handkerchiefs, religious hangings and other textiles in the 17th and early 18th centuries but coloring agents were fugitive, fading with light, time and washing.

Vintage quilt, early 19th-century
Toiles among the Indiennes and dark ground chintzes.
The toiles pieced into patchwork may be 
linen or fustian (a linen/cotton combination).

It wasn't until 1752 that Dublin textile manufacturer Frances Nixon adapted traditional mordanting techniques to plate technology by printing colorfast madder colors on linen. Nixon's breakthrough chemistry combined Eastern dyeing processes with a mordant thickened to the right consistency for the intaglio process. Mary Delaney recorded a shopping trip soon after his discovery. A friend, she wrote, "made me go with her to…see a new manufactory that is set up there of printed linens done by copper-plates; they are excessive pretty…."


Vintage quilt about 1830 set with toile squares.
A description: Monochrome scenic prints of fine lines.

Nixon moved to England to open a printworks and within a few years copperplate fabric was London's newest fad. Visitor Benjamin Franklin shipped his wife a box of goods in 1758 that included "fifty-six yards of cotton, printed curiously from copper plates, a new invention, to make bed and window curtains…."

Reproduction block by Becky Brown

Plate prints with fine incised lines produced greater detail than wood blocks, even wood blocks with added pins and metal lines. Designers could render flowers and birds with biological exactness and experiment with new subject matter like portraits, landscapes, literature and current events. The complexity of the designs dictated that the prints be monochromes, single color plus white.

Aurora's Chariot, a vintage toile

Copper plates measured about a meter (a yard) square, allowing a larger design canvas than possible with hand-applied wood blocks. The large repeat created fabric suitable for drapes and upholstery, as Franklin intended to use it, but copperplate was also made into clothing. Abigail Adams visited a London woman in 1784, admiring her dress of a "delicate blue and white copper plate calico." 


In 1759 the French government lifted its decades-old cotton printing restrictions and invited Swiss brothers, textile printers Frédéric and Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf to establish a plant near the royal court at Versaillesin a town called Jouy-en-Josas. 

The factory at Jouy-en-Josas by J.B. Huet
The workers are not tending gardens. That is colored yardage laid out
in the sun to bleach.

Most Oberkampf fabrics were printed with wood blocks but their factory at Jouy is remembered primarily for high-style copperplate printing. 

An Oberkampf chintz. The selvage says:
"Manufactured by Oberkampf at Jouy near Versailles. Colorfast."

Although many other European factories printed with plates, the term Toiles de Jouy(fabric from Jouy) came to describe it all. Toiles de Jouy, pronounced Twahl duh ZHOO-ee, is usually shortened and anglicized to toile. 


Two toile-style prints in an early quilt

Americans included toiles or copperplate prints in their quilts from the late eighteenth century through 1860 or so. The women who made these stylish quilts probably called the fabric "copperplate" rather than toile.

Figures are added with fine lines rather than large areas of color.

I own this early-19th-century star quilt bordered with a faded chintz. Toiles are pieced into several of the blocks. You find small pieces in patchwork up into the Civil War era. The fabric was durable; the fashion for toile interiors faded.

By the middle of the 19th century toiles were so out of fashion that a dry goods merchant described the remnants in his shop, "bits of calico and copper-plate, or furniture-patch," as rubbish. By the end of the century the look was quaint and old-fashioned, something satirist Marietta Holley could use to add a rustic note to a story about country folk who recovered a baby's "little high chair…with bright copperplate calico."

Reproductions

Repro star #29 by Barbara at Cookie's Creek.
She used a toile to set off her blue and
 red lapis print center.

Williamsburg Medallion from Patchalot
The chain of squares border here is similar to the one in my old quilt above.


Chintz star; toile background
by Bettina Havig

We are trying to get a specific look with reproduction toiles:
Look for scenic or botanical monochrome prints.

Bon Voyage by Kaari Meng for French General
Look for brown on white

 Bon Voyage  depicts a balloon ascension.
Red on white

Mary Koval's Palampore line
Blues both dark and light on white 


Blue Toile Quilt,  by Judy Martin (I think.)

Avoid this popular decorating look if you want to reproduce the look of patchwork toiles. The repro toile above (a wallpaper) has an added red ground. Printers could add blotch grounds to toiles. Many blotch ground chintzes feature wood block backgrounds added to monochrome roller prints. But then they aren't monochromes any more. 

I'd call it a chintz and not a toile.

A purple ground with Edwardian ladies.
 Monochromatic but pure nostalgia not history.

Waverly upholstery fabric with chickens.
One could cut those chickens out for the toile
and use the yellow and red background for a chintz.

Avoid black on white. It's a fashionable look in contemporary decorating but there were no black toiles (perhaps a dark brown or dark blue but no true black.) Reliable black dyes for cotton just weren't available until the end of the 19th century.

Lily Pulitzer toile
And no green toiles if you are looking for historical accuracy.
Printers could not print yellow over blue to get green---it wouldn't register.
They might do single step greens but those are rare.

What to Do With Your Stack of Stars?
Float Them in a Sea of  Toile.

Vintage star quilt about 1820 sold at Skinner.
I love to see this contest between the patchwork and the print.
Each tries to dominate.

Quilt about 1820, collection of the Grand Rapids Museum

When toiles created a classic decorating fashion quilters responded with their own design style---A very busy design style (see last week's post).

Edyta Sitar took this photo of the details in the Museum's quilt
set with red toile in a brown border.

Another take on the nine-patch: Brown set, red border

From Rocky Mountain Quilts: Red set,brown border

I could go on but you get the picture. 

Simple Gifts, reproduction quilt by Marsha McCloskey

Marsha McCloskey and Sharon Yenter updated the
look in what they called Blended Quilts.

Toile Exchange by Vivian Helena

Vivian's group traded toiles and stars pieced of toiles. Vivian set her exchange blocks with more toiles in a star sashing.

One More Thing About Toiles

Toile is a fashion term rather than a technical term. The early toiles were produced by copper plates 36" long but printers learned to get the same look with roller prints.

How do you know if the toile is plate printed or roller printed?
It's impossible to tell in a small swatch.

Collection of Historic New England

But if you have a bigger piece as in the early quilt above (I assume it is a bed-size quilt) you can measure the repeat. Plate prints have a large repeat of about a yard or meter. I'm guessing the quirky quilt above features true plate prints.

However, most of the toiles I've seen in American quilts are roller printed.


It's easy to gauge the repeat in border strips.



The roller print repeat is about 15"-18". Even in 
a photo you can guess that the repeat in the border toile above
is not 36". It's not a copper plate print.
It's a roller print done in plate-style.

This strip quilt of two toiles from Skinner auctions
also has short repeats typical of roller printing.

Find the top of the image and the bottom
and measure it top to bottom.

I can tell from the photo that it's the small repeat typical of copper roller prints.

A roller-printed toile

What you are buying today are silk-screened toiles...


....which can feature a large repeat. They lack the detail found in the vintage fabrics printed
by copper plates or cylinders.

Hard Times in 1862

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The American Agriculturalist, published in New York,
gave war-time housewives this advice in February, 1862:

Newspapers Good for Bed Blankets
"The present cold weather, the high price of cotton used for quilts and 'comforters,' and the recent increased cost of wool adapted for blankets, all suggest to us to remind the readers of the American Agriculturalist that common newspapers make a very good addition to the bed covering. Several papers can be pasted at the edges to form a large single sheet, to spread on the outside of the bed....
Those who have not tried it will be surprised at the effectiveness of these bed coverings, which can be prepared in a few minutes....(Of course no one would think of spoiling the Agriculturalist by using it thus.)"

The Editor, Orange Judd




Confederate Album in Homefront & Battlefield

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Confederate flag block in the center of an album sampler
made for Atwood Cluverius Walker,
date inscribed 1863


Also inscribed over the flag and the yellow flower:
"Be faithful to your flag and when the toils of war are over, may you repose peacefully beneath its folds. You friend Ellen Wright, April 6, 1863."

The Walker quilt is being shown at the Great Plains Art Museum in Lincoln, Nebraska though the end of June. It's the last venue for Homefront & Battlefield: Quilts & Context in the Civil War, an exhibit from the American Textile History Museum that "highlights a broad range of textile artifacts and other objects to explore the Civil War."
http://www.unl.edu/plains/gallery/exhibitions.shtml


Atwood Cluverius Walker (1838-1922) survived wounds and prison camp to return to his Virginia home Mount Elba in Walkerton. He married Bettie F. Toombs in 1870 and was survived by four children. His descendants care for the quilt today.

Army records describe his imprisonment and appearance:

"captured at Hatcher’s Run, Va. March 31, 1865, sent to Johnson’s Island from Washington, D. C. April 9, subscribed and swore allegiance to the United States at Johnson’s Island, Ohio, and released, June 17, 1865, 27 years old Farmer, resident of Walkerton, Va., born in Virginia, fair complexion, light hair, blue eyes, 5’ 10”

When you see the quilt in the cloth a pair of Broderie Perse
blocks with a hound dog print catch your attention.

Atwood Walker must have been a fan of dogs.


This photograph of Walker at a Confederate memorial is at the Virginia Civil War website, where scans of his papers are kept.

http://www.virginiacivilwar.org/legacy/documents.php

The catalog for the exhibit is also on sale at the Museum.

Stars in a Time Warp 21: Neat Stripes

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Reproduction star by Becky Brown with three neat stripe prints

Vintage star about 1875---three stripes


Stripes for figure and background, about 1880.

Subtle stripes make great period backgrounds for your stars.

Two neat stripes.
Reproduction star by Bettina Havig

The fabrics were often referred to as "neat stripe effects," as in the fashion note for wools below.


"desirable spring shades, especially old rose and wisteria...The cutting-up trade has taken large quantities of these shades in neat stripe effects of ladies' suits."
1916

1909
Men's ties in "pearl gray, green and red, helio, lilac,
Alice blue, old rose, magenta, catawba and coral in small, neat stripe patterns."

Reproduction by Bettina Havig

Neat stripes were part of the men's wear
look that was so popular in the 1890-1920 period.

Vintage star about 1910

Portrait in a fussy-cut striped dress.
about 1870-90

The neatest stripe I'd guess is just a
hard-edged, alternate dark and light.

The basic stripe of color on white was quite 
popular in the 1870-1900 era.

Don't let the Nile green fool you into thinking the block is 1930s---mint green stripes were popular in the 1870s.

Fussy cut stripes,
Mother with children, maybe the 1870s

You need simple stripes in your repro stash whatever time period interests you.

Block from about 1820-1840

Stripe of dots in a quilt dated 1823

Block from about 1820-1840
Many stripes had pattern in them but
there was a hard-edged, rather neat quality to them.


Block from about 1840-1860
Look for neat stripes in all colors.


Reproduction star by Becky Brown with a neat stripe
of double pink

Block from about 1870-1890 
Pinks and...

particularly madders, which were the rage in the 1870s.

Log cabin backing about 1870-1890

We can contrast the neat stripes to serpentine stripes

Quilt from about 1800-1830


Rainbow stripes,
Quilt from about 1820-1840

And border stripes.

Repro border stripe from my Civil War Homefront collection
Border stripes are larger scale than neat stripes.

Railroad Crossing repro quilt by Roseanne Smith with the red version
of the large stripe as the mitered border.

Reproduction by Bettina Havig
A neat stripe---or is it a chintz in a striped set?
Either way it's a good repro look.
The light background stripe has that excentric look
of a mechanical drawing. (See last week.)

You need all sizes of stripes.

Krissy's Antique Stars

A reproduction kit from Petra Prins's shop


Rainbow stripes, serpentine stripes and larger border stripes each had a limited heyday, but neat stripes are found throughout the century.


Neat stripes and California gold in a vintage block.

You know how careful we are at matching stripes.
Forget it!

Vintage star about 1880

Vintage star, about 1850

Reproductions


Ann in her Notes From the Quilt Lab blog showed her
reproduction (on the right) of a faded four patch.
Stripes aplenty.

Becky fussy-cut a star of triangles to get this neat effect.
See Bettina's version above

Becky says, "I love stripes, because of their endless design possibilities, so it was difficult to narrow it down."

A neat madder stripe I did in my 1862 Battle Hymn three years ago.

My latest Moda collection has a neat stripe called Frederick

Reproduction block By Becky Brown

Moda's Collection for a Cause: Community, in shops now.

Paula Barnes, Border Companions

Two by Nancy Gere

And two by MollyB in Victoria's Violets

Moda---the light stripe is woven, the dark printed.

What to Do with Your Stack of Star Blocks?
Frame each with a larger star.

6-inch star inside a 12-inch star

The star inside a star design is an old one, first published as Stars and Squares by the Ladies Art Company pattern company about 1890. Ruth Finley called it Rising Star in 1929.


It's #2167 in BlockBase. Below are the instructions for the outer star.


A-Cut 4 squares 3-1/2"

B-Cut 1 square 7-1/4"


Cut into 4 triangles with two cuts.

C-Cut 4 squares 3-7/8"

Cut each into 2 triangles with a single diagonal cut.

16 stars finishing to 12" will give you a 48" square quilt

This triple star also has a BlockBase number: #3993
You could just go on and on....

One More Thing About Stripes

Stripes have a deep cultural context, according to Michel Pastoureau, a French scholar with a background in medievalism. In his 2001 book The Devil’s Cloth: A History of Stripes and Striped Fabric he noted that stripes long held negative connotations in European culture as the identifying fabric of the outcast----prisoners, slaves and prostitutes.

A French Revolutionary in radical dress.
A woman in striped pants and a red liberty cap

Attitudes changed with the American and French Revolutions at the end of the eighteenth century, when stripes became an important symbol of the new societies. The first American flag, 13 red and white stripes, and France's Liberty cap, a striped knitted hat,  symbolized the lowly, indicating a sense of fraternity and equality.

Note the striped liberty cap on the right side
of this Baltimore Album block

Stripes came to symbolize the avant-garde and moved up the social ladder to the world of the upper class always eager for novel design. 
Fashion plate from the 1830s

Vertical stripes can be figure flattering---but that sleeve fashion.....

Here's a sneak peek at a neat stripe repro that will be
in my late-fall 2015 collection.
Sales reps will be showing Old Cambridge Pike to shop owners
next month.

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